1986 EZGO project advice on engine and diff

ezgoin1980 · 07-20-2019, 05:34 PM

First off this is a great forum and it has already been a very useful resource for me, thank you all for sharing your experiences and knowledge.

I acquired a 1986 EZGO from a friend, he owed me a little money and I took the cart for what he owed me. I live in Nebraska and it was in a flood in march. It was submerged for 3 days in water, over the seat... I knew I was in for a project but I like tinkering and besides being in a flood the cart is in really good shape for the age. The battery tray is even still complete with minimal surface rust!

So far I have replaced both drive and driven clutches, the starter generator, spark plug, plug wire, battery, fuel pump, carb rebuild, fuel lines, cleaned tank, new hubs and bearings on the front, extensive cleaning of entire cart. Cart runs good I also have the parts for the HEI ignition conversion which I will do next week. It has a 5" lift with 14x7 itp hurricane black wheels and 23x10-14 arisun A/T's

My goal here is a full refresh rebuild of this cart. I always try and run a tight budget but I have money here to play. Before I got this cart I had the ok from the wifey to get a much more expensive newer cart but I chose to take on this project. I love the looks of the cart and I like vintage things that are as good as new, with what I have already done it sticks out from the crowd. I live in a lake community with about 250 homes and I would say 1 in 5 has a cart so I like being the guy with the oldest cart that looks cooler than the rest.

I am wanting some advice on a couple things. I did a compression test today on the engine, cold it was 115 psi. I was planning to refresh the engine this winter, from what I have read these engines broke in run 140psi compression. With a warm engine I would likely see better numbers I'm sure. But doing a warm test stinks with the exhaust being right by the spark plug. My question is would you guys recommend the full rebuild with new crank? Or just top end? I will either way replace all seals and gaskets on the engine. It does leak a little at what appears to be around the crank case. Or maybe I should just replace the crank case gaskets and send it?!

Also I serviced the rear diff and I am getting diff fluid coming from the pinion, I did not overfill. Fluid level is right at the fill plug almost one quart. I'm almost wondering if my pinion bearing needs replaced, my driven clutch once on the shaft if you pull on it does have a little play in it maybe 1/16ish of slop I'm guessing it shouldn't?... Being that clutch is brand new I'm assuming that play is in the pinion bearing and I have worked on plenty of cars and you don't normally have play in the pinion like that. One thing that made me scratch my head is with the driven clutch off if I pull on just the splines coming off the pinion I can't feel any play? Maybe the clutch fitment just has a little play in it? Oh and another thing I thought was odd, the old drriven clutch did not have a bolt that bolts it to the pinion spline shaft it just slides on and off? I thought maybe the new clutch would come with one and it didn't... So I am assuming the driven clutch just slides on the shaft and the angle it sits at just keeps it in place? No bolt screwing it onto the pinion?

I really don't want to tear into the rear axle, I have dealt with dana axles before and I wouldn't think a 244cc 9hp motor would wear out that axle at low speeds. Even though it is 30+ years old I have seen dana axles way older with way more power driving them function without issue as long as they are maintained.

Sorry kind of a lot of reading but hopefully explained well enough to get good advice.

Thanks!
EZGOin1980

I will upload some pics once I have time I think it is a slick looking old cart

Dabble Inn · 07-21-2019, 11:47 AM

I think I used to live in your area, Nebraska---recently had a flood---lake community....Gotta be Eastern side of the state, somewhere around Omaha. So maybe Riverside Lakes? Or perhaps North or South? Fremont, Valley, Columbus, Bellevue area?..........

Anyway, Since it's been underwater and you're thinking about a rebuild I'd go all the way with a complete kit. That way you'll get a new crank but more important a new bottom rod bearing along with the other three crank bearings......

There isn't a crankcase gasket....

115lbs compression is fine, 120lbs is factory...

There should be a bolt holding the driven clutch on.....

Sounds like the pinion seal is leaking, I just replaced mine. Part #472164....

Here's the link to my engine rebuild, Might be of interest to you...

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-e...e-rebuild.html

ezgoin1980 · 07-22-2019, 11:04 PM

Haha yes I live in Waterloo riverside lakes. The cart was down at a campground tubing outfitter off of Harrison street.

Get this I torqued all the bolts on the motor some felt loose cleaned the carb again ditched the factory air box I put on a K&N knockoff motor ran incredible all weekend. Daughter and my nephew ran it for hours. Even better part not one single drip or drop of oil coming off the motor. I also checked compression warm and it was exactly 120 psi.

I replaced the pinion seal. Somewhere on here I found a cross reference number for a ford oil seal that fit perfect and the pinion is now dry!

I feel like I’m really getting somewhere finally. Cart is coming around and we are getting to enjoy it.

So is that normal that the driven clutch is not bolted to the pinion?

ezgoin1980 · 07-22-2019, 11:25 PM

I at this point if the cart continues to run good and the engine stays dry will probably just run it. Guy I got it from said it had been rebuilt and I’m starting to think that might be true. I see no reason with compression being in factory spec and the oil drip gone to spend money on rebuilding a good motor. If it starts loosing power and compression I will dive in. More fun spending money on cool accessories.

cart around · 07-23-2019, 08:14 AM

No, that is not normal. There is a bolt that holds the driven clutch on.

Pages K-2, and K-3.

Dabble Inn · 07-23-2019, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ezgoin1980

Haha yes I live in Waterloo riverside lakes. The cart was down at a campground tubing outfitter off of Harrison street.

I knew it LOL, I lived at Riverside Lakes way way back in the early-mid 70's on the little lake.

ezgoin1980 · 07-24-2019, 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cart around

No, that is not normal. There is a bolt that holds the driven clutch on.

Pages K-2, and K-3.

Wow.. not surprised this cart has been rather challenging.

So can someone give me specs on the bolt for the driven clutch? Length, thread, size? I’m surprised a new bolt didn’t come with the new clutch. When I replaced the drive clutch the bolt was included with the clutch.

Dabble Inn · 07-25-2019, 11:22 AM

I had to replace mine a few years ago and I know it's not metric, Slide the clutch on all the way and stick a tape measure in the hole then add 3/4"ish.....

You'll also need a couple fender washers, I'm guessing the bolt was about 3" long by 5/16" - 3/8". Don't remember if it's fine or course threads but your local hardware store will have it

NYOZ · 07-26-2019, 01:28 PM

It is fine thread. I believe 3/8 , 3 1/2 " long. Use Fender washers and loctite..

cart looks like mine..

ezgoin1980 · 08-03-2019, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NYOZ

It is fine thread. I believe 3/8 , 3 1/2 " long. Use Fender washers and loctite..

cart looks like mine..

Yes and Yes it was 3/8 and it was 3.5" long. I used washers and loctite running smooth.

07-20-2019, 05:34 PM	#1
ezgoin1980 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: Omaha Nebraska Posts: 17	1986 EZGO project advice on engine and diff First off this is a great forum and it has already been a very useful resource for me, thank you all for sharing your experiences and knowledge. I acquired a 1986 EZGO from a friend, he owed me a little money and I took the cart for what he owed me. I live in Nebraska and it was in a flood in march. It was submerged for 3 days in water, over the seat... I knew I was in for a project but I like tinkering and besides being in a flood the cart is in really good shape for the age. The battery tray is even still complete with minimal surface rust! So far I have replaced both drive and driven clutches, the starter generator, spark plug, plug wire, battery, fuel pump, carb rebuild, fuel lines, cleaned tank, new hubs and bearings on the front, extensive cleaning of entire cart. Cart runs good I also have the parts for the HEI ignition conversion which I will do next week. It has a 5" lift with 14x7 itp hurricane black wheels and 23x10-14 arisun A/T's My goal here is a full refresh rebuild of this cart. I always try and run a tight budget but I have money here to play. Before I got this cart I had the ok from the wifey to get a much more expensive newer cart but I chose to take on this project. I love the looks of the cart and I like vintage things that are as good as new, with what I have already done it sticks out from the crowd. I live in a lake community with about 250 homes and I would say 1 in 5 has a cart so I like being the guy with the oldest cart that looks cooler than the rest. I am wanting some advice on a couple things. I did a compression test today on the engine, cold it was 115 psi. I was planning to refresh the engine this winter, from what I have read these engines broke in run 140psi compression. With a warm engine I would likely see better numbers I'm sure. But doing a warm test stinks with the exhaust being right by the spark plug. My question is would you guys recommend the full rebuild with new crank? Or just top end? I will either way replace all seals and gaskets on the engine. It does leak a little at what appears to be around the crank case. Or maybe I should just replace the crank case gaskets and send it?! Also I serviced the rear diff and I am getting diff fluid coming from the pinion, I did not overfill. Fluid level is right at the fill plug almost one quart. I'm almost wondering if my pinion bearing needs replaced, my driven clutch once on the shaft if you pull on it does have a little play in it maybe 1/16ish of slop I'm guessing it shouldn't?... Being that clutch is brand new I'm assuming that play is in the pinion bearing and I have worked on plenty of cars and you don't normally have play in the pinion like that. One thing that made me scratch my head is with the driven clutch off if I pull on just the splines coming off the pinion I can't feel any play? Maybe the clutch fitment just has a little play in it? Oh and another thing I thought was odd, the old drriven clutch did not have a bolt that bolts it to the pinion spline shaft it just slides on and off? I thought maybe the new clutch would come with one and it didn't... So I am assuming the driven clutch just slides on the shaft and the angle it sits at just keeps it in place? No bolt screwing it onto the pinion? I really don't want to tear into the rear axle, I have dealt with dana axles before and I wouldn't think a 244cc 9hp motor would wear out that axle at low speeds. Even though it is 30+ years old I have seen dana axles way older with way more power driving them function without issue as long as they are maintained. Sorry kind of a lot of reading but hopefully explained well enough to get good advice. Thanks! EZGOin1980 I will upload some pics once I have time I think it is a slick looking old cart

07-21-2019, 11:47 AM	#2
Dabble Inn Nincompoop Club Member Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Idaho Posts: 1,178	Re: 1986 EZGO project advice on engine and diff I think I used to live in your area, Nebraska---recently had a flood---lake community....Gotta be Eastern side of the state, somewhere around Omaha. So maybe Riverside Lakes? Or perhaps North or South? Fremont, Valley, Columbus, Bellevue area?.......... Anyway, Since it's been underwater and you're thinking about a rebuild I'd go all the way with a complete kit. That way you'll get a new crank but more important a new bottom rod bearing along with the other three crank bearings...... There isn't a crankcase gasket.... 115lbs compression is fine, 120lbs is factory... There should be a bolt holding the driven clutch on..... Sounds like the pinion seal is leaking, I just replaced mine. Part #472164.... Here's the link to my engine rebuild, Might be of interest to you... http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-e...e-rebuild.html

07-25-2019, 11:22 AM	#8
Dabble Inn Nincompoop Club Member Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Idaho Posts: 1,178	Re: 1986 EZGO project advice on engine and diff I had to replace mine a few years ago and I know it's not metric, Slide the clutch on all the way and stick a tape measure in the hole then add 3/4"ish..... You'll also need a couple fender washers, I'm guessing the bolt was about 3" long by 5/16" - 3/8". Don't remember if it's fine or course threads but your local hardware store will have it

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07-22-2019, 11:25 PM	#4
ezgoin1980 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: Omaha Nebraska Posts: 17	Re: 1986 EZGO project advice on engine and diff I at this point if the cart continues to run good and the engine stays dry will probably just run it. Guy I got it from said it had been rebuilt and I’m starting to think that might be true. I see no reason with compression being in factory spec and the oil drip gone to spend money on rebuilding a good motor. If it starts loosing power and compression I will dive in. More fun spending money on cool accessories.