TXT series worked but now wont move either direction

[georgia088]

You can bypass the solenoid by placing both large cables under the same large terminal. If the solenoid is bad. This would make the cart work and confirm your solenoid is bad.

[corbox1]

Tried that. Nothing. When I take off the large terminal wire on the controller side and test solenoid, it works as designed. Solenoid appears to be good. The large wire that I took off the controller side of the solenoid (leads to the controller B+ terminal of the controller) has about 23V. Should the short piece of wire going from the controller side of the solenoid to the B+ controller lug have power all the time?

[georgia088]

Originally Posted by corbox1

Tried that. Nothing. When I take off the large terminal wire on the controller side and test solenoid, it works as designed. Solenoid appears to be good. The large wire that I took off the controller side of the solenoid (leads to the controller B+ terminal of the controller) has about 23V. Should the short piece of wire going from the controller side of the solenoid to the B+ controller lug have power all the time?

I am thinking it should have about 5v less than pack voltage because of that resistor. Not sure it should be that low though. What is your pack voltage?

[corbox1]

"CHECKING CONTROLLER OUTPUT Connect (-) probe to M- terminal.
Connect (+) probe to B+ terminal.
The reading should indicate approx. 0 volts." I get now about 32 volts before I even press the pedal. Does this mean the controller is bad?

[georgia088]

Originally Posted by corbox1

"CHECKING CONTROLLER OUTPUT Connect (-) probe to M- terminal.
Connect (+) probe to B+ terminal.
The reading should indicate approx. 0 volts." I get now about 32 volts before I even press the pedal. Does this mean the controller is bad?

I would think so, but I would wait for someone else to confirm.

[georgia088]

Originally Posted by corbox1

Tried that. Nothing. When I take off the large terminal wire on the controller side and test solenoid, it works as designed. Solenoid appears to be good. The large wire that I took off the controller side of the solenoid (leads to the controller B+ terminal of the controller) has about 23V. Should the short piece of wire going from the controller side of the solenoid to the B+ controller lug have power all the time?

What do you mean “ when I take off the large terminal wire on the controller side and test solenoid, it works as designed”?
Do you mean The cart works as designed? If the cart works as designed when you do this (bypass solenoid); your solenoid is bad. Or activation circuit of solenoid is bad. Activation circuit consists of several micro switches closing in order to close (engage) solenoid.


What is your reading with one probe on (b-) and one probe on (m-)? It should be 5v less than pack (resistor) keeping capacitors charged in controller. When pedal is pressed just enough for solenoid to click, it should go to full pack voltage. As the pedal is pressed to the floor the voltage should go down to 0v when pedal is pressed all the way down. If all this isn’t happening, either bad throttle input or bad controller.
May need to check throttle input again because when I looked back and one of your first posts, it appears to have voltage that are off.

[corbox1]

Originally Posted by georgia088

What do you mean “ when I take off the large terminal wire on the controller side and test solenoid, it works as designed”? By this statement I mean that the solenoid appears to work properly. No continuity between the large terminal until petal is pushed and the solenoid clicks.
Do you mean The cart works as designed? If the cart works as designed when you do this (bypass solenoid); your solenoid is bad. Or activation circuit of solenoid is bad. Activation circuit consists of several micro switches closing in order to close (engage) solenoid.


What is your reading with one probe on (b-) and one probe on (m-)? It should be 5v less than pack (resistor) keeping capacitors charged in controller. My reading here is actually like -1.0 V. When pedal is pressed just enough for solenoid to click, it should go to full pack voltage. As the pedal is pressed to the floor the voltage should go down to 0v when pedal is pressed all the way down. Does go to 0V when petal is pushed. If all this isn’t happening, either bad throttle input or bad controller.
May need to check throttle input again because when I looked back and one of your first posts, it appears to have voltage that are off.

New TPS coming today. I will throw it on and let you know if anything changes here.
Thank you.

[corbox1]

New TPS installed this afternoon. Did not solve the problem. I guess I will buck up and buy a new controller.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by corbox1

New TPS installed this afternoon. Did not solve the problem. I guess I will buck up and buy a new controller.

What does "TPS" stand for?

[corbox1]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

What does "TPS" stand for?

By TPS I am referring to the black position sensor under the floor mat that the metal probe goes into when the pedal is pushed.

Does the F&R switch have any test methods to rule out it being the problem while it is in the cart? I have seen the diagram to test for continuity, but is there a method to be sure that its functioning? I have looked online but haven't found any tests (only visually looking for burn marks). I only ask because my problem first presented itself in the form of reverse not working.