EZGo Shuttle Ain't Goin'

[radioman]

No you should not get continuity on the big solenoid post (the contacts) unless the solenoid is energized and it should not be energized unless there is voltage on the small terminals (the coil) and there should not be voltage there unless the key switch is on and the accelerator pedal is depressed. There is supposed to be a 250 ohm resistor across the big posts would be the only thing you should measure as far as continuity and the reason you may see voltage on both big contacts when everything is connected. If it is energized for some reason you should hear it click when you take wires off one side of the small solenoid post and touch it back. If you performed the checks JohnnieB outlined and gave him the correct measurements and he says the controller is bad it is. You may have two bad controllers the test one got damaged swapping it or the suffix 211 may not be the same as the 210. There is not much more anyone can help you with determine what is wrong. You may want to repeat the measurements but the throttle sensor output voltages you made to the controller looked good. The other test JohnnieB recomended M- to B- voltage measurement when the pedal is depressed is a clue if the controller is good or bad.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by wakeworld

I don't have access to another working cart. However, I do have access to another controller that came out of a working cart (but I didn't know my buddy had it until after I had mine rebuilt). Mine is a Curtis 1205-210 and the one out of the working cart is a 1205-211. I mentioned swapping out for this other controller in the original post. Sorry if that wasn't clear. When I swap out with the other controller I'm getting all the same test results.

When I test continuity on the big posts of the solenoid before it is connected, I get none. However, once I install it, I'm getting continuity even with the key off and the switch in neutral. Is that right?

This is an example of the potential for misunderstanding.

If the solenoid was installed (IE: wires connected to the two small terminals and cables connected to the large terminals) and you connected an Ohmmeter across the two large terminals, the Ohmmeter would have released the magic smoke that makes electronic gadgets work, or blown its internal fuse.

Since an exploding meter wasn't mentioned, I presume the cables were not connected to the large terminals, or the battery pack voltage was disconnected by other means.

Radioman is correct, the solenoid should not energize until key is on and pedal is pushed, but all the solenoid does is apply/remove the battery pack to/from the controller. Whether the solenoid is good or bad, or opening/closing when it should will not alter how the controller works.

The controller for a 48V Shuttle-6 with a series motor is a 73233-G01, which crosses to a 1205-210. Nivel also lists the 1205-211, so it is probably comparable.

--------------
Granted, it is odd that two controllers have exactly the same symptoms (other than completely dead), so let's eliminate the motor, F/R switch and about half of the high current cables by replacing them with a light bulb.

Remove the cable from the controller's B+ terminal to the motor, the cable from the controller's M- terminal to the F/R switch and the two cables on the controller's A2 terminal. Also remove the Half speed reverse wire from the controller (Orange wire on Pin-4)

Connect a 120V 100W incandescent light bulb between the controller's M- and B+ terminals.

Now the voltage between M- and B+ ought to go from Zero to about full pack voltage as pedal is pressed to floor. (Or from full battery pack voltage down to about Zero is you measure between M- and B-)

If the voltage still isn't right and the throttle input signal volt is correct, the controller is bad, both of them if they both produce the same results.

[wakeworld]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

This is an example of the potential for misunderstanding.

If the solenoid was installed (IE: wires connected to the two small terminals and cables connected to the large terminals) and you connected an Ohmmeter across the two large terminals, the Ohmmeter would have released the magic smoke that makes electronic gadgets work, or blown its internal fuse.

Since an exploding meter wasn't mentioned, I presume the cables were not connected to the large terminals, or the battery pack voltage was disconnected by other means.

All the cables were in place and the batteries were hooked up. I'm afraid I'm not smart enough to explain why my meter didn't blow up, especially since I wasn't smart enough to know not to try that in the first place. :)

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Remove the cable from the controller's B+ terminal to the motor, the cable from the controller's M- terminal to the F/R switch and the two cables on the controller's A2 terminal. Also remove the Half speed reverse wire from the controller (Orange wire on Pin-4)

Connect a 120V 100W incandescent light bulb between the controller's M- and B+ terminals.

Now the voltage between M- and B+ ought to go from Zero to about full pack voltage as pedal is pressed to floor. (Or from full battery pack voltage down to about Zero is you measure between M- and B-)

I did this. The voltage went from 0 to 51.1...and the light bulb lit up! :)

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by wakeworld

1. All the cables were in place and the batteries were hooked up. I'm afraid I'm not smart enough to explain why my meter didn't blow up, especially since I wasn't smart enough to know not to try that in the first place. :)

2. I did this. The voltage went from 0 to 51.1...and the light bulb lit up! :)

1. Hang onto that meter, it indestructible.

2. That says the controller is good. (The 0.1% got me)
Checkout the motor using the attached drawing from Carts Unlimited.
And/or check the ohmic value of the motor windings.

[wakeworld]

Just by looking at that image I'm not sure what exactly I'm supposed to do to "checkout the motor." Do I just hook everything up like it describes and see if the motor runs? What do you mean by checking the "ohmic value of the motor windings?"

[radioman]

Get JohnnieB's opinion on all this first. You might try measuring the ohms or resistance between the motor S1 and S2 terminals and the A1 and A2 terminals. You should get a reading on both pair but I am not sure what the ohmic (ohms) value should be. I think you could make these measurements with everything still wired but not energized. To be safe you might want to disconnect the main battery +. Again Check with JohnnieB first before attempting above. The S terminals are the motor field wirings and the A terminals are the armature. The image shows how to hook up the motor to see if it runs without over speeding it using lower voltage. If you use this method to test motor make sure the rear is jacked up so it won't take off. However if you get a bad reading (an open or a high resistance or ohm readings) between the S terminals or between the A terminals with the ohmmeter the motor might be the problem.

[JohnnieB]

Forget checking the motor for the moment, it finally occurred to me that we have not eliminated the battery pack as the problem yet.

If the battery pack voltage is dropping significantly under load, it could produce the symptoms being observed.

When the motor was replace by a light bulb, the load on the battery pack was greatly reduced and the voltage readings at the controller were relatively normal. So the symptoms now point towards the motor OR the battery pack. The battery pack is easier to check, so do it first.

Reconnect the motor and then connect your voltmeter between the controller's B- and B+ terminals and push the pedal.

If the voltage drops down to about the same voltage you measure between the M- and B+ terminals when the pedal is down, the controller is good and the battery pack is bad.

[yurtle]

To check the ohmic values, do as mentioned above, but with all cables disconnected. You should check A1 to A2, and S1 to S2, but also check A1 to S1. You "should" get infinite resistance between the A and the S, but in fact, you'll probably get something high, due to the brush "dust", which is graphite.

To do the other test in the illustration, use the cables you have, but move them around (mark them first, for when you're done), place it on jack stands and see if it runs. For a switch, you could use the solenoid, but that will take quite a bit of temporary wiring, as you'll need 36 volts on the small terminals to activate.

[yurtle]

I see JohnnyB was typing the same time as me. Follow his advice.

[wakeworld]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Reconnect the motor and then connect your voltmeter between the controller's B- and B+ terminals and push the pedal.

If the voltage drops down to about the same voltage you measure between the M- and B+ terminals when the pedal is down, the controller is good and the battery pack is bad.

Am I doing this with the cables removed from the controller as you described in the previous test or is this with the controller all wired up like it's supposed to be?