I'm starting to think the Moric controllers are crap

[nickdalzell1]

anyone else deal with them just going 'bang' out of nowhere and the car is then completely dead nobody home for no reason? Are they just another case of 'the biggest companies make the worst crap' or what? thankfully Alltrax is a worthy upgrade, but good grief the Moric is tiny, epoxied made in China garbage. I'm surprised the last one I replaced was 10 years old. Car ran great until i was a few miles down the road and let off the pedal, motor jumped and i heard POW from rear, and that was it. No warning. Worse yet the little 3A fuse is there for decoration apparently since it NEVER protects anything

[Volt_Ampere]

IMO Moric controllers are somewhat crappy. I have replaced both of mine with Alltrax controllers. One Moric is still functional. The 3 amp fuse only protects the low current circuit, Run/Tow, Key Switch, and the pedal switch.

[nickdalzell1]

I've seen so many fried PSU's that took everything out except the fuse that i wonder what the fuse was even good for. In my over 16 years plus working on golf cars I've never seen that 3A fuse ever pop. Naturally I assumed it was for legal reasons. That way they could pass UL or something. Kinda how many transistor radio makers got away with 'fake' transistors like some used as diodes or some that weren't even in circuit just to get the '8 transistor' rating or something.

Morics fail one of two ways. Out of the blue going bang, and the other where they sort of work but the diagnostic logs are full of false positive 'field short circuit trip' errors.

[Volt_Ampere]

I had a solenoid fail (one of the high current ones) and it took out the 3 amp fuse. So it's good for something. It is not intended to protect the controller.

[kgsc]

The other big failure point in the Yamaha is the hitachi motor.. It is very possible that the motor is having an issue and takes out the controller.

[nickdalzell1]

Never had a stock yamaha motor fail, but have seen tons and I mean TONS of those aftermarket 'D&D MOTOR CO.' motors go out, often taking out the controller in the process--never know for sure until you see it blow out that brand new Alltrax unit. Motor can pass continuity and be shorted somehow interally. I know that view won't make me popular as D&D is a site sponsor or quite popular but it's been my experience often enough that I cannot trust them, especially after they tried to claim the motors that failed were 'counterfeit' as if anyone would go to the effor to counterfeit an electric motor. But the numbers on the duds never seemed to show up on the end of D&D, but I think they were literally giving me the business.

I'm of the old school in that if a company screws me over more than once, I refuse to buy from them again. I don't even care if Subaru for example got better, the fact is the first car I ever had from them, an XT6/Alcyone, was utter garbage that broke down every chance it got. So they're on my list of 'don't buy from ever again' companies, most recent being Red Hawk.

[Volt_Ampere]

I have two G29's and both Hitachi motors failed. I have D&D in both of them running perfectly. (7 years and 3 years so far) IMO, the D&D motors are far superior to the Hitachi motors.

[nickdalzell1]

I honesly have yet to experience a 'good' D&D. they've all been open (A1-A2 Open mostly) or kill controllers in a puff of smoke even after you try to test continuity and verify no short to case. I don't even know how they perform as I have literally never seen a good one. Most of them are on Tomberlins and are dead open so that's where I see them most. Yamaha is second. I already got a Yamaha with a dead Alltrax that has a D&D but that might either be the motor or the junk Rural King batteries he is using, which are only two months old, but I will find out when the new SR comes in, hoping it won't explode in a puff of smoke as per usual procedure, A1-A2 are OK, F1-F2 are OK, and no F1-A2 or similar shorts, and no shorts to case, but I am getting deja vu vibes, been here before, and modern Alltrax smoke is awful smelling.