Cart no forward no reverse no click but has rev buzzer

[dorseyt]

Thank you in advance for what ever help/advise you can give me. I have a 2001 Club Car DS 48 volt cart I recently purchased used.(Serial # AA0113-003691) (My wife just had a back fusion surgery L-4/L5/S1! I picked it up for her to get back and forth to the pool for physical therapy) When I bought it the dealer installed brand new batteries. The solenoid is also brand new. The cart has run good until the other day it just stopped dead. The first thing I did was charge the batteries. After charging (they did charge overnight) they are showing 50+ volts from Last - to first +.
After charging I turned the key to on and push the accelerator pedal, nothing happens, the solenoid does not click or make any noise the cart will not go forward or reverse. The reverse buzzer does make sound when gear selector is in reverse. When I put volt meter on either side of the large posts on the solenoid it reads 50+ volts. I then went to check the voltage on all 4 terminals going into the drive motor. In doing so I discovered that the large green cable that is connected from B4 on the controller to A1 on the motor had corroded at the ring terminal on the B4 side and was completely disconnected. I cleaned it up and reattached the wire to the ring terminal and reconnected it to B4. Still nothing. All 4 terminals at motor now have 50+ volts. So I then did the OBC reset I found at alltraxinc.com. Left it set over 5 minutes and came back and hooked up according to the instructions and still nothing? I also went to the key switch and disconnected the blue wire and touched it to the green wire and hit the accelerator pedal and nothing? I tested the inline fuse in the yellow fuse holder and it is still good. Any ideas on where I should go from here?
Thanks
Dorsey

[Fairtax4me]

What controller is in it?
You mentioned Alltrax, but if it has a stock Curtis controller there's a chance the controller is dead because of the wire coming loose from the motor. Any short circuit at the motor has the potential to take out a Curtis controller.

The yellow fuse holder will not have any effect on whether the cart works or not as that is only used by the charger.

There should be a 15a fuse somewhere near the controller or near the solenoid, usually in a weatherproof fuse holder.

[dorseyt]

I'm pretty sure it is a stock controller, I mentioned alltrax because someone mentioned it on another thread. How can I test the controller to see if it is bad and if it needs replaced if I buy an aftermarket model would it give any Performance enhancement or should I just stick with stock?

[dorseyt]

Ok So I got a hold of the dealer I bought the cart from and he really helped me out. He said first thing to try was to put my positive test lead on my first positive Battery terminal and then to put the negative lead on the small yellow wire/spade terminal on the solenoid and check for a continuous ground. I showed 48.7 volts on my tester. So I had a continuous ground & the solenoid is good. So then he said expose the back side of the key switch and with the key in the off position hold the negative lead on last negative battery post and positive lead on the post towards the drivers side on the back of the key switch. I had 48+ volts. I turned the key on and had 48+ volts on the other post so the key switch was good! Next step was go the V-glide box. To get into it I had to remove the rear battery on the drivers side and slide the front one back out of the way. Then depress the little plastic keeper tabs on the plastic cover for the V-glide. I removed the cover and you can see a little micro switch inside there. The blue wire from the right post on the key switch connects to and supplies power to the micro switch. So I tested it and I have 48+ volts at it. So next he told me to test the spade terminal on the top with the green & white wire. It had no power to it and when I had my son push the accelerator pedal I still had no power to it. There is a middle spade terminal that is not used. I touched it and it had power 48+ volts. When I did this I accidentally touched the spade terminal with the green & white wire and the solenoid clicked and the wheels on the cart started to turn! So this little micro switch is the problem. Going to pick one up this afternoon and should be running again tonight!

[Mooncarter]

Originally Posted by dorseyt

Ok So I got a hold of the dealer I bought the cart from and he really helped me out. He said first thing to try was to put my positive test lead on my first positive Battery terminal and then to put the negative lead on the small yellow wire/spade terminal on the solenoid and check for a continuous ground. I showed 48.7 volts on my tester. So I had a continuous ground & the solenoid is good. So then he said expose the back side of the key switch and with the key in the off position hold the negative lead on last negative battery post and positive lead on the post towards the drivers side on the back of the key switch. I had 48+ volts. I turned the key on and had 48+ volts on the other post so the key switch was good! Next step was go the V-glide box. To get into it I had to remove the rear battery on the drivers side and slide the front one back out of the way. Then depress the little plastic keeper tabs on the plastic cover for the V-glide. I removed the cover and you can see a little micro switch inside there. The blue wire from the right post on the key switch connects to and supplies power to the micro switch. So I tested it and I have 48+ volts at it. So next he told me to test the spade terminal on the top with the green & white wire. It had no power to it and when I had my son push the accelerator pedal I still had no power to it. There is a middle spade terminal that is not used. I touched it and it had power 48+ volts. When I did this I accidentally touched the spade terminal with the green & white wire and the solenoid clicked and the wheels on the cart started to turn! So this little micro switch is the problem. Going to pick one up this afternoon and should be running again tonight!

[fsu1tm]

Classic "follow the power path" troubleshooting. Good job.

[dorseyt]

Originally Posted by fsu1tm

Classic "follow the power path" troubleshooting. Good job.

Yes I definitely learned something there. Changing that micro-switch ended up being a PITA too! LOL Of course as with everything I touch, nothing can ever go easy or exactly the way it is supposed to. Aaron had warned me that sometimes the little nuts on the back side of the micro-switch fall out and you have to take it apart further. Uh huh. and you know what happened to me... So then I also discovered one of the mounting bolts for the V-glide had broken itself free from the plastic housing. I ended up having to remove the whole E-glide "box". So I cleaned it out the best I could and then sanded the plastic bottom and then sanded the metal spacer with the 2 mounting holes in it. With both of them cleaned as well as possible I applied some 2 part epoxy to the metal and then positioned it on the bottom of the plastic and set it out in the 95 degree sun for an hour. I put everything back together. The epoxy held really well and the cart drives good now. After I first put it back together on the shake down cruise a couple of times when I stopped and went to take off again I could hear the solenoid click but it would not go forward. If I put it into reverse it would take off and back right up and then when I put it back in forward it would go again. The more I drive it the less it does it now? Any Ideas on what would cause that?

Thanks
Dorsey

[Mooncarter]

Originally Posted by dorseyt

Yes I definitely learned something there. Changing that micro-switch ended up being a PITA too! LOL Of course as with everything I touch, nothing can ever go easy or exactly the way it is supposed to. Aaron had warned me that sometimes the little nuts on the back side of the micro-switch fall out and you have to take it apart further. Uh huh. and you know what happened to me... So then I also discovered one of the mounting bolts for the V-glide had broken itself free from the plastic housing. I ended up having to remove the whole E-glide "box". So I cleaned it out the best I could and then sanded the plastic bottom and then sanded the metal spacer with the 2 mounting holes in it. With both of them cleaned as well as possible I applied some 2 part epoxy to the metal and then positioned it on the bottom of the plastic and set it out in the 95 degree sun for an hour. I put everything back together. The epoxy held really well and the cart drives good now. After I first put it back together on the shake down cruise a couple of times when I stopped and went to take off again I could hear the solenoid click but it would not go forward. If I put it into reverse it would take off and back right up and then when I put it back in forward it would go again. The more I drive it the less it does it now? Any Ideas on what would cause that?

Thanks
Dorsey

Dorsey, check that the FNR switch is making good contact.

[fsu1tm]

Originally Posted by Mooncarter

Dorsey, check that the FNR switch is making good contact.

What he said.

[dorseyt]

Originally Posted by Mooncarter

Dorsey, check that the FNR switch is making good contact.

Hey Mooncarter
Thanks. I will have my son re-check those wires. I did unplug them all to take the V-glide out. I had him plug them all back together for me cause it was tight for me to get my hands in there.

Thanks
Dorsey