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09-22-2017, 08:34 AM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 22
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My late 90's 48v Club Car won't go.
Hello all. I have a couple of carts. One EZGO and this Club Car. The prior owner had the batteries stolen over the winter at his cottage. I got a pretty good deal (I think).
The thieves (dummies) rather than unhook the batteries, used side cutters to cut them free. Then had to struggle with the hold downs anyway. They cut the large negative cable black drivers side (the one that passes through the on-board computer.) The large red positive cable and small red positive cable coming from the charger port. The white and green cables were also cut, I simply spliced them together. I replaced the 8v units with 4 12v RV house batteries. Charged them completely (49.3). When the key is energized the passenger side solenoid clicks but the other does nothing. When you depress the accelerator either in forward or reverse nothing happens. I'm thinking the trouble could likely be the 2nd solenoid. I'd be grateful for any help thanks in advance. |
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09-25-2017, 08:42 AM | #2 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 22
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Re: My late 90's 48v Club Car won't go.
Here is an update. I charged it until the charger went off. I checked voltage of the pack at 1st neg, and last pos. It was 54v. After scratching my head for a while and removing the rear panel for better access (wasn't any better), I read a 48v manual, but discovered it didn't match my car. I youtubed my fingers raw trying to figure where or what to test next. I discovered it is a 97 duel solenoid with a black controller. "Regen 1" system.
I went to check again. I rechecked the pack. 54v again. So I preformed the OBC reset sequence. Still nothing. So I checked at the 1st solenoid, 54v. I tried the 2nd solenoid. only got 26.3v I rechecked 1st one. 26.3v again? I rechecked the pack and got the same 26.3v read? I put the charger back on til it shut off this morning. the car still won't go. Anything suggest what to do next? |
09-25-2017, 09:49 AM | #3 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 190
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Re: My late 90's 48v Club Car won't go.
There are better people than I to handle this, but my first reaction is, gosh I'll bet those thieves never had anything arc (no sparks) while busy chewing through your wires. So, maybe controller is zapped?
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09-25-2017, 12:26 PM | #4 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Chestermere, Alberta - Canada
Posts: 1,146
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Re: My late 90's 48v Club Car won't go.
That black Regen-1 controller is a bit complicated (BIG understatement) even when its working properly.
If it IS working properly when batteries are connected.... Step 1 - Turn the key, and only the first (main) solenoid should click-on (close the circuit between the two big posts). Step 2 - Touch nothing - just wait and within 10-25 seconds (depending on timer setting) the main solenoid should click-off by itself. Step 3 - Depress the accelerator and BOTH solenoids should click on and stay on (closing the circuit between their two big posts). Make sure at least one rear wheel is jacked up off the ground while performing this test, because (you never know) the cart might unexpectedly spin the tires. Let us know what you find. Edit: BTW - if your pack is only 26 volts - that's not enough to run either solenoid - something is wrong with your batteries if they dropped their voltage that quickly. |
09-25-2017, 12:40 PM | #5 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 22
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Re: My late 90's 48v Club Car won't go.
Thanks I'll try those steps in order tonight.
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09-25-2017, 01:43 PM | #6 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 22
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Re: My late 90's 48v Club Car won't go.
I did read cleaning the contacts on these Reagan 1 units does wonders. what contacts? And is there a procedure?
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09-25-2017, 02:33 PM | #7 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Chestermere, Alberta - Canada
Posts: 1,146
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Re: My late 90's 48v Club Car won't go.
Mostly its the Z-plug which plugs directly into the controller that can have intermittent connections. There are so many functional dependencies built into that particular controller, that any poor connection between that plug/socket can create nagging issues that are hard to trace.
So, simply making sure that Z- plug/socket is clean and well seated and making secure connections - as well as pulling and re-seating (one by one) the FIVE spade connectors on the Fwd/Rev rocker switch; can eliminate many of the issues which plague that early drive system. For good measure while your at it - the accelerator Pot Box (under passenger floorboards) which controls the throttle, has plugs & spade connectors that should be sprayed (with alcohol) and re-seated. |
09-25-2017, 03:26 PM | #8 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 22
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Re: My late 90's 48v Club Car won't go.
That is helpful, thanks. **** thing is hard to see/get to upside down like that.
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09-25-2017, 03:35 PM | #9 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Chestermere, Alberta - Canada
Posts: 1,146
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Re: My late 90's 48v Club Car won't go.
There's an old saying that really suits Regen-1 owners who are troubleshooting - "if this was easy - EVERYONE would do it"
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09-25-2017, 03:38 PM | #10 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 22
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Re: My late 90's 48v Club Car won't go.
Used to be my favorite saying at the gym.
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Tags |
48v, club car, solenoid |
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