2005 club car motor issues

[Tspoon21]

I have a 2005 club car that quit running. I don’t have a extra $600. To get a new motor. I took it apart just to look for anything obvious but found nothing that look burnt or broken. Is there anyone that can rebuild it/upgrade.? I would like to do it my self if possible. I in joy learning new stuff and doing things myself. Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you in advance

[TahoeDawgZ71]

If it's not burnt or broken why do you need to rebuild it? Are you sure you have a motor issue?

[Golf cart guy]

I agree with TD- a bad motor is obvious, I don't think you have a motor issue

[NoleFan4Ever]

And the issues are......?

[Tspoon21]

I started smelling a burning smell and the cart quit and wouldn’t move. Two of the wires going into the motor are brown on the end. But I don’t see anything else that looks burnt. I sent the controller back to the people that rebuilt it since it was still under warranty he said that the codes in it said the motor was the problem. The controller was upgraded to 400 amp Thought that might have cased the problem.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Is your main solenoid clicking when you press the Go pedal? If not, I would start trouble shooting there.

I have had many older cables over the years get dark over their lives just due to the large amp draw for long periods, but motors were still good.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

A simple continuity test on the motor will prove if it's good or not. Do a continuity test with a good multimeter on the Diode Test setting. Test between A1 and A2, and S1 (F1) and S2 (F2). You should have continuity in both tests. Check for continuity between all four posts individually to the case of the motor. You should not have continuity at all.

[Tspoon21]

I’ll test the motor tonight after work. The solenoid wasn’t clicking But it did when I gave power to it directly. That what made me think the controller was messing up. But I was told it was good.

[NoleFan4Ever]

After you check the motor as David instructed, then test the MCOR. Unplug the two pin connector from the MCOR and jumper the connector with a paper clip or wire. It should be a blue wire and green wire connector. If it runs with the jumper then your MCOR has failed.

If that makes no difference, then check for both 48v + and - and the 2 small posts on the solenoid. You have to have both for it to close in.

[Tspoon21]

Haven’t had a chance to get the motor back together but did get a few pictures to see if I’m messing anything messed up. And to ask about the armature it has alittle rust on it. I thought it should have varnish on it to protect it. Hopefully I can get home before 8 to get it back together tonight.