2005 EZ will not move, no solenoid click

[Silver63]

Hello all,

First time poster long time reader. Forgive me if I post something wrong.

I bought a used 2005 EZ-GO TXT cart. (I believe) MFG date code is: K0605

I am an aircraft electrician so I have decent schematic skills and troubleshooting skills...

I bought it knowing it needed fresh batteries. Drove it on my trailer to get it home, unloaded it, put in 6 brand new batteries. Drove it around the yard for a half hour and put it in my shop everything was fine. 1 week later I go to move it out of my shop and it will not move. No solenoid click, nothing. Checked wiring, found a schematic that matches model(I think) watched you tube vids...etc. I can put power to the positive side of solenoid and that engages solenoid and the cart will move. So my thinking is it has to be in the activation circuit.....correct? I ohm'd out all the micro switches and they all seem fine...checked ignition switch, its ok. Is it Inductive Throttle Sensor? How do you test that?

The only thing I cant figure out is the speed controller. My box doesn't seem to match the schematics. It has CURTIS PMC 25864G09.

Please help! I had 6 brand new batteries because I bought a Yamaha G8E last year and got hosed because I didn't do my research but that's another story...

[Silver63]

Post in error

[JohnnieB]

No solenoid click means B+ is not getting to the solenoid coil.
The first place to check is the small wire coming out of the backside of the charge receptacle. See attachment-1

That is the voltage source for the microswitches and keyswitch. If B+ isn't there, bypass the reed switch. Attachment-2

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The ITS sensor is not part of the solenoid activation circuit.

The new batteries ought to have been charged before first use and after each use.

[JohnnieB]

The controller you have doesn't have an A2 terminal, but other than that the attached schematic is correct. (Just disregard the cable between the A2 terminal and the "C" terminal on the F/R switch)

[Silver63]

It appears my reed switch has already been bypassed.

[JohnnieB]

It does look that way.

Here is a schematic with solenoid activation circuit highlighted.

[Silver63]

When checking B+ and B- etc I should have my negative lead on the negative post of a battery correct? Not the frame...I have 37.8 VDC at B+ and nothing at B-.

[JohnnieB]

Electric golf carts use an ungrounded electrical system. Battery pack should not be connected to frame.

Unless otherwise specified all voltage measurements are referenced to the main negative post of the battery pack.

Your batteries need to be charged. 38.2V is 100% SoC.

[Silver63]

Let it charge. Definitely over 38.2 vdc now.

Going back to my Air Force troubleshooting days...it seems one of the switches should be bad correct? Based on the diagram I should be able to eliminate the forward switch because the reverse switch doesnt energize the solenoid either. I tried another switch for an ignition and no difference. Foot pedal micro switch seems to act correctly....i ohmed it out. Open with pedal not depressed. 0.3 ohms with pedal depressed.

[JohnnieB]

I taught troubleshooting in the AF. (School of Healthcare Sciences - Medical Equipment Repair Course -- mid '70's)

Use your voltmeter.

Do you get B+ on the solenoid's small terminal with the red wires attached when pedal is pushed? If not, go looking to the voltage.

The solenoid clicks when you jump B+ to the small terminals with red wires on it and the reed switch has been bypass, so the problem is between those two points.