Cart new to me, new set of batteries full charge barely moves

[rickstwowheels]

I took a bunch of pictures before I took the old batteries out, just in case I needed to reference them later. The problem is that I do not have the cart here with me today, so I used this old picture to ask my question.

Originally Posted by bobwalter

Those are Interstate batteries not Trojan. ???

[NoleFan4Ever]

What you are seeing there is the dynamic brake solenoid and resistance coil. Your controller is behind all that and mounted above (upside down).

[NoleFan4Ever]

Regen 1's are a little difficult to correctly bypass so I just want to make sure we are all on the same page with what you have and what has been done.

[rickstwowheels]

I understand and I appreciate your help. My Dad is going to take a picture and I will post it.

[rickstwowheels]

50.6v this morning, 16 hours after charging. Pictures to follow when Dad gets home from church

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by rickstwowheels

50.6v this morning, 16 hours after charging. Pictures to follow when Dad gets home from church

That is a good charge, and should get a little better when your batteries are fully broken in. See the attached.

[Fairtax4me]

What’s the model number on your new charger? What’s the amp rating?
55v is low at full output. You should be seeing about 60v during the bulk charging stage. The batteries will not receive a full charge if 55 is the highest it’s getting to.
This is not causing your current no-go issue, but it will cause damage to your new batteries in just a few months.

When you replaced the batteries did you replace any of the cables?
You might want to make sure the cable connections on the solenoids and at the controller are clean and tight and the cable ends are not frayed or damaged.
Usually if the controller is in lockout (due to incorrect OBC bypass) the cart will not move at all. If you’re getting just a little movement, a few inches or so, then it stops, either the first solenoid is not closing, or there is a connection problem somewhere.
A current picture of your batteries and all the cables on those may help.

[rickstwowheels]

Charger is a Schauer model number JAC1548cc, 48v 15 amp, I did not replace any cables, I am working on pictures.

It is a little hard to explain but it wasn't exactly like it went a few feet and stopped, it kept trying and would keep moving if we pushed it, it just did not have any power.

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

What’s the model number on your new charger? What’s the amp rating?
55v is low at full output. You should be seeing about 60v during the bulk charging stage. The batteries will not receive a full charge if 55 is the highest it’s getting to.
This is not causing your current no-go issue, but it will cause damage to your new batteries in just a few months.

When you replaced the batteries did you replace any of the cables?
You might want to make sure the cable connections on the solenoids and at the controller are clean and tight and the cable ends are not frayed or damaged.
Usually if the controller is in lockout (due to incorrect OBC bypass) the cart will not move at all. If you’re getting just a little movement, a few inches or so, then it stops, either the first solenoid is not closing, or there is a connection problem somewhere.
A current picture of your batteries and all the cables on those may help.

[rickstwowheels]

Here are some pictures

[Fairtax4me]

Where your main pack Negative cables are attached, there should only be ONE cable there. Where do the two large cables go? One of those should go to B- terminal on the controller.
The small wire looks like either charger negative for the OBC bypass, or the negative for the voltage reducer. Where does that come from? If that's charger negative, Usually that also gets connected to the B- terminal on the controller as it is closer to the original location of the end of the wire where it went into the OBC. If it's the reducer negative, make sure the large cable is installed first, so it has direct contact with the battery post. The high amperage cables need to be first on the battery or they will not move current effectively and will also heat up and can melt the terminal.

The main pack Positive connections looks like you have the main cable, Charge lead, and supply lead for the voltage reducer. Same thing here as above, make sure the LARGE cable is FIRST in direct contact with the post. The smaller cables can be over that.

On battery in the front left corner of the tray you have a cable routed so the insulation is touching the other post on the battery, loosen and re-route that cable so it is well away from the other terminal. Those cables will move as the cart bounces around and if that insulation rubs through you will have a direct short of that battery. That will either cause a fire or cause the battery to explode. DO the same with ALL of the cables, make sure they are routed so they are NOT NEAR other battery terminals.