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Old 07-30-2021, 06:09 PM   #11
Volt_Ampere
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Default Re: 1981 Lithium conversion possible?

I would go with an Alltrax controller but I would also upgrade to 48Volts rather than 36.
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Old 07-31-2021, 01:14 AM   #12
Pat911
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Default Re: 1981 Lithium conversion possible?

Quote:
I called Allied battery who make a 36v 36ah GS2 drop in replacement LiFePO4 (I would buy 2 and run them parallel). I mentioned the balancing issue that Pat911 discussed and he said the BMSís would talk to each other and keep the batteries balanced during charging... ? Does that sound plausible or just a sales guy giving the green light?
I canít see how the BMSís will talk to each other, these packs just have 2 terminals, positive and negative, no comms port. Having said that, putting two packs in parallel is not a problem, putting them in series is.
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Old 07-31-2021, 10:32 AM   #13
simicrintz
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Default Re: 1981 Lithium conversion possible?

When I was doing mine it was explained that one BMS will not handle multiple batteries (I am hooked in parallel) and I have one on each battery pack.

Quick pic for reference attached.
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Old 07-31-2021, 11:06 AM   #14
81clubcar
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Default Re: 1981 Lithium conversion possible?

Hey Simicrintz,

That is a great pic of your set up, thanks. If it isnít too much trouble, could you label the different components you have there in the picture (if mine is wrong somewhere) I am guessing mine will end up looking just like that and I want to start ordering parts pretty soon. Is there any critical item that is not in the picture? Did you replace your accelerator pedal as well? If so did a throttle position sensor come with pedal or with the MCOR?

Thanks in advance... I canít wait to get all this going...
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Old 07-31-2021, 08:57 PM   #15
simicrintz
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Default Re: 1981 Lithium conversion possible?

You're welcome.

I bought my Chevy Volt batteries from a guy on eBay and then bought the BMS units from him also (there is some discussion on here about how "good" the BMS are and that they are really just overpriced cell balancers) so they are somewhat battery specific.

In your labeling, the "fuze" is a shunt, the "MCOR" is my controller (the MCOR goes under the cart on the right side frame rail) and the "?" is my 48V to 12V reducer.

I'll see if I have a finished pic somewhere (that pic is from when I was still hooking stuff up) to see if there is more info that I can provide.
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Old 08-01-2021, 07:37 PM   #16
81clubcar
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Default Re: 1981 Lithium conversion possible?

Thanks simicrintz and Pat911,

I assume you got a new accelerator pedal? Is the shunt is there just so you can monitor amps... or is it part of the controller system?

For anyone reading this with a schematic understanding of what all is needed to retrofit the A81 club cars...

As components go, if my understanding is correct: (I am going to [ ] new items I need to buy and install to get this going) and assuming I am sticking with the stock 36v motor.

ó The [accelerator pedal] is linked to a [throttle position sensor]... which speaks to the [MCOR]... which speaks to the [motor controller]... which has the batteries, the motor, and the F/R switch wired to it with main power wires. An optional [36v to 12v step down converter] would be picked off from the battery connection somewhere... I am not quite sure where the large [300-500amp solenoid] comes in to play. Is it in-line between the battery + side and the motor controller? Is itís only job to cut power when the key is turned off?

I assume an in-line fuse would be a good idea somewhere in there, maybe next to the solenoid?... along with a battery isolation switch possibly just in case in the same general line between the batteries and the controller?

Are there any key components that I am missing that anyone can think of?


Thanks in advance folks, my confidence level is creeping up after all the help and research...
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Old 08-02-2021, 09:02 PM   #17
simicrintz
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Default Re: 1981 Lithium conversion possible?

I did not get a new go pedal. While I wanted to build the cart the way I wanted it, I did want to keep some of the old, original parts, so that stayed.

Here's a description of the shunt (better than I could have described it):

"Club Carís Power Drive is a Series Motor System, on the market from 1990 and up. On the golf carts built in the years 1990 Ė 1994, the controller used a 0 to 5K potentiometer (36 Volt). In the years 1995 and up, they used 5K to 0 potentiometers (48 Volt).

A shunt motor system is also known as a Regen and referred to as a Sepex (Separately Excited). DCS (Drive Controller System) was in use 1995-1999 and was the first shunt-wound motor system. It was controlled by a DCS Controller. This motor did not have a sensor and the controller did not count RPMís. In 2000 the PDS (Precision Drive System) controller was introduced along with the Regenerative braking, and the motor has a speed sensor and cable to interact with the speed controller.

A Series motor has no speed sensor. It is a completely different circuitry from the shunt system, even with the older shunt-wound modelsí lack of a speed sensor".
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Old 08-03-2021, 10:57 AM   #18
81clubcar
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Default Re: 1981 Lithium conversion possible?

Well hell, I thought changing the pedal was mandatory for using an MCOR and motor controller... I am not sure what it is called but my cart has the original little box full of limit switches that activate the different solenoids. Did yours have the same thing or do/did you have a fancy V-glide? Just curious if it mounts similar or if you have to fab something (which Iím fine with).

That would mean it is actually possible to keep the pedal and just attach an MCOR in place of my limit switch box? I assume your not using the box or glide still...? for clarity, the MCOR is the throttle position sensor and there isnít a separate item correct? Or did you mount a potentiometer of some sort which speaks to the MCOR... which in turn speaks to the controller and so on...?

Thanks, this is really helping me get a good clear picture of what all I need and donít need!
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Old 08-03-2021, 03:26 PM   #19
81clubcar
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Default Re: 1981 Lithium conversion possible?

Knowing that you (possibly) kept your V-glide has just opened some doors... itís looking more like now I can keep my original pedals, switch from the original limit switch box to a new V-glide (with some modifications to the linkage) and then straight to a controller!

I have been informed that I can just use one of the (5) solenoids attached to the resister coils as the new lone solenoid, I assume it is rated high enough since they are currently in use... does that sound correct?

As far as I can tell I donít need a shunt, diode, speed sensor, etc... to get a basic system up and running with 36v LiFePO4 batts... Iíll get e 36v - 12v converter... can anyone think of a reason that wonít work, or if I am missing some glaring piece that is critical for operation or safety?

Thanks again everyone... (Simicrintz and Pat911)
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Old 08-03-2021, 09:24 PM   #20
simicrintz
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Default Re: 1981 Lithium conversion possible?

If you are keeping your coils you will not need a shunt.

Give Dave at Revolution Carts a call; he will walk you through exactly what you need and save you a lot of headaches. I had the coils (and that was about all I had!) and tore everything out and started over. The stock pedal works just fine with the kit Dave will provide and an MCOR and save you a lot of wasted time
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