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Big Block Talk! Everything about swapping a big block engine into your cart! |
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10-18-2022, 04:22 PM | #1 |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 141
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no voltage to fuel solonoid, 85 club car with V twin
Hello out there!, I have come a long way since I first started posting on this forum. I continue to learn and understand.
In recent months I completely rebuilt a Briggs v twin engine that came out of an old 85 club car. The issue is no fuel getting to the carb. Troubleshooting led to no voltage getting to the " fuel solenoid. I am trying to understand the wiring ?? The fuel solenoid is connected to the voltage regulator which is connected to the stator??? aka: DC alternator??? I can't seem to find a good wiring diagram. There are 2 black wires coming from the stator with a 2 prong plug-in connector that connects to the voltage regulator. Using a test light there is no voltage coming from those 2 black wires. I am confused about how this system works Voltage from the DC alternator runs through the voltage regulator which provides voltage to the fuel solenoid ???? So the charging system controls the fuel solenoid which controls the carburetor's ability to build up suction for the mechanical fuel pump to operate??? If no voltage from the stator is the problem.. what next??? how would I test? Can the fuel solenoid be bypassed so the engine could run regardless of a defective charging system?? I am sooooo confused |
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10-18-2022, 07:27 PM | #2 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: NC
Posts: 773
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Re: no voltage to fuel solonoid, 85 club car with V twin
Well, not knowing how your cart is currently wired, the simple test or permanent fix is to run a 12v jumper wire from any 12v source that is normally hot when running. If your vtwin idles, it could be a hot from the key. If starts from pedal, a jumper from the solenoid would work. All the fuel solenoid is is a plunger that stops fuel flow at the needle valve in the carb. I've actually removed the plunger out of mine so it doesn't matter. No need for the safety it provides as your coils should ground to kill the engine, and it isn't a lawnmower needing extra safeties.
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10-18-2022, 09:20 PM | #3 |
Searching for The Way
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Medina, Ohio (NEOHIO)
Posts: 11,435
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Re: no voltage to fuel solonoid, 85 club car with V twin
What you are describing sounds like the "anti backfire solenoid". Basically it electronically moves a rod that has a rubber fitting on the end of it that plugs your fuel inlet. It will be "closed" with no voltage. It will be "open" with voltage. You can either wire it into your ignition switch "on" position, or you can remove it and take out the rubber fitting or modify the rod so it doesn't close all the way. On all the Vtwins I've owned I just remove the rubber fitting, works just fine that way, never a problem. Some people will remove the entire solenoid and then install a plug with a gasket washer. |
10-21-2022, 01:13 PM | #4 |
Vegas modded 420
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: West MI
Posts: 15,443
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Re: no voltage to fuel solonoid, 85 club car with V twin
The alternator/stator should have AC voltage running if you test it. The VR will turn it into DC. So if you see a lot of AC at your battery the VR is bad. The rectifier is usually in the VR, that is what converts it to DC. No AC off stator then its bad. In general. It may be hooked to the VR because the VR supplies the battery with power and so it would be hot, and should be hot but only while running which is what the carb solenoid probably needs. So VR would have to still switch with the key I would think, but I haven't wired one lately. Have to remember they do stuff like that to use less wire, they will double up if its going to same place.
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10-21-2022, 03:37 PM | #5 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Central South Carolina
Posts: 936
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Re: no voltage to fuel solonoid, 85 club car with V twin
All of the afterfire solenoids I've ever seen are two wire plugs with one side going to frame ground and the other side wired to keyswitch on, so that all the time its switched on it's powered, and when switched off it closes and stops fuel flow into the main metering jet. If you can determine which is ground and which needs power, just power it hot when switched on. Should work. It's purpose is to stop fuel flow through the carb after you have lifted pedal and stopped spark. On spin down it will draw raw gas through the motor into the muffler, and when you pedal back down and re-engage spark you can get a backfire. ( explosion of fumes in muffler. )
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