98 EZGO TXT Clicking Solenoid

[Mike-GA]

New to the site. Have a 1998 EZGO TXT Series(?). F&R by knee. No run/tow switch. Lift with 22" tires. Had a problem of cart stalling or dying, more like getting hot, let it set, cool down a few minutes then it would go. Just had 6 new batteries installed and the cart ran great for a few days. Now all it does is click when the accelerator is pressed. I have read alot of the previous posts but none of them talk about the stalling. I am guessing the contoller is gone. We use this cart for hunting so I disconnected the reverse alarm. Should I have done this? Thanks for any help.

[LostHusker]

Mike GA welcome!!!

Well couple of questions, when you replaced the batteries did you check under the environmental cover, also did you replace the cables on the batteries, and is all the electronics stock, since your cart is not.

LH

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Mike-GA

New to the site. Have a 1998 EZGO TXT Series(?). F&R by knee. No run/tow switch. Lift with 22" tires. Had a problem of cart stalling or dying, more like getting hot, let it set, cool down a few minutes then it would go. Just had 6 new batteries installed and the cart ran great for a few days. Now all it does is click when the accelerator is pressed. I have read alot of the previous posts but none of them talk about the stalling. I am guessing the contoller is gone. We use this cart for hunting so I disconnected the reverse alarm. Should I have done this? Thanks for any help.

Welcome to BGW.

Hopefully you fully charged the new batteries before using them and you are breaking them in properly,

What are the battery voltages and total pack voltage? (New batteries do go bad)

Also, 22" tire will stress a stock system, but the old batteries might not had the oomph to wipe anything out, so something went soon after the new batteries started throwing more current through it.

If the solenoid is clicking when the pedal is pushed, the problem is narrowed down to the high current circuit.

Here's a schematic for a Series cart (Later year, but should be pretty close) and a generic drawing showing the high current circuit only.
Also tossed in a State of Charge chart. Batteries should kept as fully charged as possible and/or practical; And never be discharged more than 50%

[Mike-GA]

Thank you for your responses. The cart is stock except for the lift and tires.
The batteries were installed at a local golf cart shop. New battery cables were installed. I am guessing that this is a series cart based on info I aquired on the internet, can you confirm based on the info I submitted? The issue with the stalling was present with the old batteries.

[scottyb]

If it was stalling, one of 2 things could have been happening. Both things are hard on the motor & will eventually smoke the controller.

It is very likely now that you have a controller failure.

[Mike-GA]

ScottyB,

Can the controller be replaced with out replacing the motor at this time, in interest of funds? Could the previous stalling be an indication that the controller was going out?

[Mike-GA]

Ran Diagonostic test today. Fully charged batteries yesterday unplugged charger over night.

Battery Pack 38.8
Battery side of Solenoid 38.8
Controller side of Solenoid 38.0

ITS
Red Wire 38.0
Black Wire 14.32
Seperate 6 Pin Connector 14.59
White Wire .468
Full Throttle 1.638
Controller Output 3.8
Press Pedal 4.0

F&R Switch Continuity
Reverse .001
Forward .000

I am looking forward to any and all input. Thank You

[scottyb]

Based upon what you have posted, the controller is overheating and going into thermal cut out until it cools then it goes again until it heats up and shuts down again.
New batteries would have helped some if the old batteries were running low on voltage = higher amperage = higher heat.
Lots of people posting they run the stock controller with big tires thru the woods 'all day'... I think they are all going to be in your shoes eventually.
Your controller will continue to overheat until one time it just doesn't come back on. Replace it with a 4-500 amp series controller and HD solenoid, also replace all the battery type cable with 2-4g welding cable, not just the battery to battery cables. and upgrade the F&R switch. Once this is done you won't have any troubles running the bigger tires & stock motor off road.