04-13-2012, 09:48 AM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Brewster, Ohio
Posts: 35
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Marathon 4" lift questions
Thinking about buying the "easy" economy 4" lift for my '87 Marathon but I have questions, is the steering affected with this? Does the drag link drop enough or is there some fix for this? Does the link need to be modified? If the link is not touched, does it bind? If it is a simple bolt on with no additional work needed then I'll be happy. I just don't like surprises. PS: Got the roof on with some modification to the rear brackets, thanks Rusty Shackle. |
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04-15-2012, 04:00 PM | #2 |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: westvirginia
Posts: 137
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Re: Marathon 4" lift questions
the 4" economy lift kit works really well i installed mine in about 2 hours max the only thing you need to do is flip the tie rod over and reinstall
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04-15-2012, 09:19 PM | #3 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Brewster, Ohio
Posts: 35
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Re: Marathon 4" lift questions
That is what I was worried (concerned) about. I just wanna do this without 7 trips to the hardware store,,,LOL.
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04-18-2012, 09:34 PM | #4 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Brewster, Ohio
Posts: 35
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Re: Marathon 4" lift questions
I just finished putting on a 5" kit from ATV Engineering. Instructions are so/so. The issues I was concerned about reared their head. First off,, the rear spacers are a very tight fit. The lower spring post needs a grinder taken to it so that all the weld slag is gone. It also helps if the entire thing is cleaned with the grinder and you will still have to hammer the spacer on. Anti-seize helped. The choke cable will need adjusted when done. Be very carefull with the fuel line and check on the intake tube. The rear springs will need some talking to with a BFH before they completely seat themselves but your first ride will settle them. The front end was just as fun. The front spacers will need to be rotated untill the 4 holes line up. The front inside bolts are a tight fit as they are very close to the axle tube. The drag link will need to have the spindle end flipped over. If you don't flip it the steering will bind. This will require a 1/2" hole drilled in the arm because the drag link end is tapered and will not just flip without having the hole drilled. This is the best easy fix I could think of quickly without other in depth work. The steering works well and I plan on checking everthing in a few days of driving. The steering only binds on a hard right turn for now. I will let everybody know how things go. I am by no means bashing ATV Engineering or anyone on the forum. This is just me letting other people learn from my experience.
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