head/tail lights stopped working

[jcow]

Thanks Mec. Will give the bypass a shot and assuming it works, see what can be done on a replacement.

[OLD MEC]

Usually when I do a similiar key switch to reduced voltage control set up I use a standard golf cart solenoid ( example White Rogers model 586 36 volt solenoid like used on your cart ) added to key switch wiring that acts as automatic on-off control for 12 volt accessories.

[sonicj]

do most golf cart dc-dc reducers not have a switched control input? i've never installed one...
-sj

[jcow]

Assumed (and that's a problem) that the relay would handle the needed reduction in voltage. Wrong. Just retested the output of the switch going into the relay. It is 36V. So while the schematic shows to wire the lights as I did (red wire to cart key switch) it also says that line should be 12v powere supply. My issue now is how do I wire this by either bypassing the key and just use the on off light switch or how do I get the 36v reduced to 12v. Fully admit electrical systems are not my thing.

[OLD MEC]

You have several choices here in redoing or changing your wiring setup.
1- Get another cart solenoid or any relay that has 36 volt DC coil windings ( pull in voltage ).
2-SIMPLEST IS TO FORGET "relay and key switch connection completely" and wire direct from 2 batterys in series to head light switch ( with fuse inline before switch ) giving you 12 volts. WARNING this causes unbalance in battery pack and requires either changing leads from different battery combinations or charging then seperate to keep them charged to other battery codityion?
3-MUCH BETTER YET
A-get yourself a 36 volt to 12 volt voltage reducer that is wired so it can be turned on and off by a additional dash switch ( reducer should only be powered when needed for fire safety sake ) so in this way your complete pack ( 36 volts ) is drawn down even and lengthens life of complete battery pack.
By using reducer you can eliminate relay and hook direct to light switch DO NOT get a voltage reducer that only hooks to 2 batterys as unbalance will ruin 2 batterys used for lights and put extra high charge load on batterys not used causing batterys to boil and damage plates.
B-Get yourself a small 12 volt battery and hook all accessories to it and charge form any 2-4 amp auto charger ( I use a handicap scooter battery #12350 that is small 7"X5 1/2" X 7" and is sealed so it can be mounted in any position ) NOTE I put mine in glove box until I mounted over front suspension.
Hope this will help you out?

[jcow]

Thanks Mec. I really like your last suggestion. I have an extra 12v Sea Doo Battery that would work perfect. I have always worried about an uneven draw on the carts batteries, especially given the replacement costs.

[OLD MEC]

On my own personal 1996 48 volt cart I started by using at first a old battery from my handicap scooter, then by using another 48 volt solenoid that was controled by stock dash key switch, and because of solid state controls added another diode and resistor, along with a 30 amp 6 outlet fuse panel to make a complete automatic set up. This allows me to break down all my accessories and by adding a heavy duty 25 amp marine dash power outlet I can plug in an adapter on my charger and charge the battery easily.
My cart has head lights, tail lights, turn signals, brake lights, 2 100 watt running lights, sterio, over head fan, etc so to save on power draw I switched all lighting over to LED so I only need to charge my battery twice a month depending on use.

[jcow]

Mec, your cart has more amenities than my house! Surprised you didn't list a fridge. Again, thanks for all the help on this.

[OLD MEC]

Thats what you get when you dont work because of being disabled with too much time on your hands?