spline motor couple

[cheapjeep2]

I know you said you had the motor checked with new brushes but the more I read this the more it sounds like a faulty motor. Have you done a continuity test between A1/A2 and F1/F2 and the case?

You may be familiar with this test but just incase, best to disconnect the power leads from the motor. With a VOM meter, on ohms, check for continuity. You should have continuity between a1 and a2 but from neither of those posts to either of the Field posts (F1/F2) or any parts of the case. And the same thing with the F1/F2 (S1/S2 if series). You should have continuity between those two posts but not from either of them to the A1/A2 or the motor case.

The reason I ask is that I have seen a motor problem before where a field winding was shorted to the case causing similar problems as what you are seeing. Also, you mentioned a POP. When the motor was part did you thuroughly inspect the armature windings, I have seen more than one motor where one of the loops on either end of armature snap making a pop noise and causing the problems you are seeing.

[Stevegrmich]

Originally Posted by cheapjeep2

I know you said you had the motor checked with new brushes but the more I read this the more it sounds like a faulty motor. Have you done a continuity test between A1/A2 and F1/F2 and the case?

The reason I ask is that I have seen a motor problem before where a field winding was shorted to the case causing similar problems as what you are seeing. Also, you mentioned a POP. When the motor was part did you thuroughly inspect the armature windings, I have seen more than one motor where one of the loops on either end of armature snap making a pop noise and causing the problems you are seeing.

. . . good point . . I have seen 25hp motors that would spin when smoke testing them, but would not hold up under load . . .

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Sounds like a controller or potentiometer problem to me. When the rear of the car is lifted up in the air it will run right? Makes sense to me, take away all the resistance and the bad controller that no longer puts out maximum power all of a sudden has the power to turn the tires. That's a possibility for sure. Also, if the potentiometer is not sending proper signal to the controller, this can weaken the output as well. Check the potbox or v-glide signal, whichever you may have. Probably a V-glide on your year model. Pull the Yellow and Red wires off of the controller and check them for ohms while in forward with key on. You should read 5K ohms at pedal up and 0 at pedal down. If you get the correct reading I'd suggest putting a controller on it. I've seen this before. Probably 10 or 15 times actually. But NEVER have I seen a motor "Slip"

[Gydyup]

Yep, it isnt the motor. And you hit it right on the head, it will run ok up in the air, put it on the ground it jerks a tad then nothing.

Its Electric - Boogie Woogie.

I know crap about electric stuff, I have heard of potentiometers in college.
I am off to a series of skeet shoots this weekend through next week, so I am gonna take the cheezy way out and drop it at the buggy shop on my way out.

I will let you guys know what it was. Batteries, controler, etc. I was so darn sure it was mechanical from the way it was acting. Torn up too many trannys and rears in drag cars that seemed very similar.

Thanks for all the help, I will let you know what the mystery is, and certainly keep up on this board, its awesome.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by Gydyup

Yep, it isnt the motor. And you hit it right on the head, it will run ok up in the air, put it on the ground it jerks a tad then nothing.

Its Electric - Boogie Woogie.

I know crap about electric stuff, I have heard of potentiometers in college.
I am off to a series of skeet shoots this weekend through next week, so I am gonna take the cheezy way out and drop it at the buggy shop on my way out.

I will let you guys know what it was. Batteries, controler, etc. I was so darn sure it was mechanical from the way it was acting. Torn up too many trannys and rears in drag cars that seemed very similar.

Thanks for all the help, I will let you know what the mystery is, and certainly keep up on this board, its awesome.

[Gydyup]

Shadowman wins the prize. One Bad battery, probably when I jacked it up to get it back on the trailer.

New battery and it runs like a champ. Now I have fairly new batteries, one brand new one, a new rear end, and new brushes etc in the motor.

Also replaced the bushings in the front end, like a new buggy now.

While I was under it, I noticed one of the braces or brackets that the batteries sits in, smalled one that runs front to back, is corroded through.

Any good advice on replaceing that. I have a Mig and torch kit, but no alum wire feed equipment - yet.

Thanks for all the help and advice, my first casualty with the cart, followed my drag car diagnostics logic, Flawed. Learned a bit frm this.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Good job Shadowman!