Wire getting hot to motor

[jwill36]

Lifted my cart a few months ago and this past weekend i noticed melted battery terminal....so i fixed it by tapping port next to it and everything was working fine. Over the weekend i was using it at hunting club and noticed a burning smell and then the cart would stop....i would let it sit for awhile then it would work again. i checked the cables on battery and motor all where tight but some where really hot and two of the ports on motor were very hot that nearly melted post. Changed all the wires to new 4guage wires and the wire from the solenoid with coil spring going to A2 port on motor is still getting hot
along with the coil on solenoid...all the other wires are fine. and i also noticed
cart seems to feel like it drops down a gear at full speed... like pulling back.
Don't no what else to do?

info: 6"lift kit with 22" inch tires...CC 2000 DS model regen controller & brand new motor.

[shadowman]

if that reagan solenoid is acting up that would cause the coil to get hot really hot and cable......you may just have an issue with the reagan braking on cart....................................

[scottyb]

I think it was established in another thread that jwill36 is using automotive battery cable. The recommended wire is welding cable, The welding cable strand count is many many times the automotive type, this may be why you are getting heat and poor performance.

[jwill36]

there are 2 solenoids on the cart 1 on the driver side with coil and 1 on driver side going to last battery both bought a few months ago. Why would the braking cause the issue? And is that fixable?

[jwill36]

Should all the cables be welding cables? The original cables are what burned...there is only 1 getting hot out of all the new ones replaced. Where do i get these welding cables?

[TahoeDawgZ71]

The dynamic braking solenoid has nothing to do with whether the motor braking works or not. It should work perfectly in sync with the primary solenoid, and once it opens upon pedal release will cause all excess energy to get soaked up by the coil in an attempt to soften or dampen the motor braking feel. In 2000.5 Club Car decided it wasn't worth having so they built the car from then until it's death in late 2001 without a second solenoid. Your best bet would be to eliminate the motor braking completely, unless you just can't live without it. Truthfully it doesn't do much at all for you as far as the regeneration of power is concerned. If I were you, I would un-plug the speed sensor on the end of the motor and let it hang free. This will disable your motor braking completely. Second, I would bypass the Dynamic braking solenoid. You can do this by removing it, and re-routing the wire that currently runs from the controller to the solenoid, directly to the A2 post of the motor, and discard the second white wire. As for the small wires on the solenoid, clip them off and tape them up. Your end result will be a much more simple circuit. One single white wire running from the controller directly to the motor. No solenoid in the mix with a resistor to heat things up. This may very well help your issue. If it does not, i'd look more towards the internals of the motor. A bad connection of the motor brushes will cause heat. It's a resistance issue and you must find the source of the resistance.

[jwill36]

there are 2 wires on solenoid with coil.....1 goes to controller and the other goes directly to A2 terminal from solenoid....are you saying disconnect the wire from solenoid that goes to controller and attach it to A2? So from controller straight to A2? what do i do with other wire that runs to motor now from solenoid?

[jwill36]

Originally Posted by jwill36

there are 2 wires on solenoid with coil.....1 goes to controller and the other goes directly to A2 terminal from solenoid....are you saying disconnect the wire from solenoid that goes to controller and attach it to A2? So from controller straight to A2? what do i do with other wire that runs to motor now from solenoid?

so i disconnect the wire from solenoid that goes to controller and connect it to A2? what about the other wire that connects to A2 now from solenoid?

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by jwill36

so i disconnect the wire from solenoid that goes to controller and connect it to A2? what about the other wire that connects to A2 now from solenoid?

Quote from post #6

Second, I would bypass the Dynamic braking solenoid. You can do this by removing it, and re-routing the wire that currently runs from the controller to the solenoid, directly to the A2 post of the motor, and discard the second white wire.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Thanks Scottyb, yes exactly. Discard it. Your end result is a wire from controller to A2