96 cc ds continuously variable potentiometer fails test

[shempferd]

I finally decided to take off the body and check out the entire electrical system. While checking the key switch (test 2 in the manual), I checked continuity between the green/wht coming from the limit switch to the large post of the solenoid(red wire) while holding pedal down. With key on, I'm supposed to get continuity, however, I'm getting 150 to 200 ohms. Key off, no continuity. The manual says to adjust pedal position using their fancy meter, which of course I dont have. Any ideas?

[Golfdog]

Originally Posted by shempferd

I finally decided to take off the body and check out the entire electrical system. While checking the key switch (test 2 in the manual), I checked continuity between the green/wht coming from the limit switch to the large post of the solenoid(red wire) while holding pedal down. With key on, I'm supposed to get continuity, however, I'm getting 150 to 200 ohms. Key off, no continuity. The manual says to adjust pedal position using their fancy meter, which of course I dont have. Any ideas?

Adjusting the pedal position will not change your readings, all it will do is change the amount of travel the pedal makes before activating the limit switch. You seem to have resistance in the wiring, first check and see that the solenoid is activated when you press the pedal and if so leave well alone. If you want to check out the potentiometer set your meter to 20k ohms and take the reading across the yellow and purple wires to the pot. At rest it should be 0 ohms and increase to 5-6k ohms when you press the pedal to the floor.

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by shempferd

I finally decided to take off the body and check out the entire electrical system. While checking the key switch (test 2 in the manual), I checked continuity between the green/wht coming from the limit switch to the large post of the solenoid(red wire) while holding pedal down. With key on, I'm supposed to get continuity, however, I'm getting 150 to 200 ohms. Key off, no continuity. The manual says to adjust pedal position using their fancy meter, which of course I dont have. Any ideas?

I think you are confused. Thread title says potentiometer fail but your test is at the limit switch going to solenoid. The pot throttle output signal goes to the controller. I hope this helps

[shempferd]

Sorry for the confusion. I am checking my entire electrical system using the manual. The first test begins with the control circuit tests.

Test 1 is voltage, which tested fine, albeit low(46v).

Test 2 is key switch. I have the continuously variable pot so I used that procedure. Red wire on meter to large term of solenoid and black meter wire to green/white from fwd/rvs limit switch. I disconnected batts and dumped the residual voltage via book. Then depress and hold accelerator pedal to floor to activate limit switch. Key off, no continuity, good check. Key on, I get the 150 to 200ohms. I'm supposed to get continuity. Book says check key switch, wires and terminals but I think the key is working fine.

I kept testing other circuits.

Test 3 is for the forward/reverse anti-arcing limit switch, which passed.

Test 4 is for accelerator pedal limit switch. It does the same test as test 2 above. Same failure, of course. Now book says check to be sure that the wires are connected properly to the normally open and the and the common terminals. I'm guessing they mean the green/white wire and white/black on the limit switch. I dont know which terminals are which on the switch but I dont think they are incorrect. My green/white wire is on the short side of the switch while the white/black is in the middle of the long side. It then states to check accelerator pedal adjustment, which is where I came up with the title to my post. I thought the pot may be bad because this test is failing and the pot needed adjustment. The book finally states to replace the switch.

Sooooo, does it make sense that a bad accelerator pedal limit switch could create resistance in the circuit? I guess I was thinking it would be all or nothing.

Thanks

[Stevegrmich]

Originally Posted by shempferd

Sorry for the confusion. I am checking my entire electrical system using the manual. The first test begins with the control circuit tests.

Test 1 is voltage, which tested fine, albeit low(46v).

Test 2 is key switch. I have the continuously variable pot so I used that procedure. Red wire on meter to large term of solenoid and black meter wire to green/white from fwd/rvs limit switch. I disconnected batts and dumped the residual voltage via book. Then depress and hold accelerator pedal to floor to activate limit switch. Key off, no continuity, good check. Key on, I get the 150 to 200ohms. I'm supposed to get continuity. Book says check key switch, wires and terminals but I think the key is working fine.

I kept testing other circuits.

Test 3 is for the forward/reverse anti-arcing limit switch, which passed.

Test 4 is for accelerator pedal limit switch. It does the same test as test 2 above. Same failure, of course. Now book says check to be sure that the wires are connected properly to the normally open and the and the common terminals. I'm guessing they mean the green/white wire and white/black on the limit switch. I dont know which terminals are which on the switch but I dont think they are incorrect. My green/white wire is on the short side of the switch while the white/black is in the middle of the long side. It then states to check accelerator pedal adjustment, which is where I came up with the title to my post. I thought the pot may be bad because this test is failing and the pot needed adjustment. The book finally states to replace the switch.

Sooooo, does it make sense that a bad accelerator pedal limit switch could create resistance in the circuit? I guess I was thinking it would be all or nothing.

Thanks

. . . when testing for continuity, the meter sends a small amount of voltage thru the wire/circuit being tested and a resistance reading on the meter shows the circuit is complete, ie, no broken switch/wire . . . no reading at all means incomplete circuit, ie, broken switch/wire . . .

[shempferd]

I'm surprised to get that much resistance. You would think they would mention that in the manual.