Cart wants to do a burnout

[tws31]

So, this is my new problem. Cart is a '99 Club Car DS (Series) 48v. For those of you following the other thread about the solenoid resistor getting hot, the cart will now move (resistor is still left off at this point). However the cart wants to take off at what feels like full power when I just barely touch the pedal. It actually left burn marks on my garage floor lol. I'm guessing it's probably a bad controller, but is there a way I can check it and make sure?

[Volt_Ampere]

Either a bad controller or bad throttle controller

[scottyb]

It is possible you have the throttle input mismatched to the control. If one is volts and the other is ohms. or the signal is reversed? when you push the gas further down does the cart slow? just a thought. maybe a program issue

[tws31]

Originally Posted by scottyb

It is possible you have the throttle input mismatched to the control. If one is volts and the other is ohms. or the signal is reversed? when you push the gas further down does the cart slow? just a thought. maybe a program issue

Well, I got busy with work and haven't had time to mess with the cart until yesterday. I jacked the rear wheels off the floor so it wouldn't try to make a doorway into the dining room through the garage wall lol. I tried varying the pedal up and down, and the wheels seemed to spin at the same (fast) speed no matter where the pedal was. Also after I tried this, I could smell smoke coming from somewhere in the rear compartment where the controller, motor, and everything is located. I couldn't see it, or tell where it was coming from, but you could definitely smell it.

I also checked the resistance between the yellow and green wires that plug onto the controller. From what I understand, these come from the V-glide unit. I got several steps of readings as I depressed the pedal. I had the meter on the 20K setting.

5.63 (Pedal up completely)
4.73
3.95
3.05
2.05
1.01
0.00 (Pedal down completely)

So, I'm assuming it must be the controller?? If it is, where is a good place to get either a new or remanufactured unit? I'm not really looking for something high performance, just something economical to get the cart going again.

Thanks again for all the help so far.

[scottyb]

I can say this, if the cart moves F&R then the controller is probably still good. But it could be a mismatch with your throttle signal if you have never seen this controller work correctly in this cart or somebody has recently tried to reprogram it.

The cheapest controller I can get you is the one in your cart right now - LOL

[Sergio]

Based on your first comment, I read the last thread and noticed this part:

...also disconnected all the cables going to the controller and the solenoid and cleaned them too (did them one at a time so I would get them put back where they were)...

If you have inadvertently changed the M- with B-, you would have the problems you described in both threads. It may be that you are applying the battery straight to the motor and not using the controller output at all. You may want to double check all of those cables.

[tws31]

Originally Posted by scottyb

I can say this, if the cart moves F&R then the controller is probably still good. But it could be a mismatch with your throttle signal if you have never seen this controller work correctly in this cart or somebody has recently tried to reprogram it.

The cheapest controller I can get you is the one in your cart right now - LOL

No, I've never seen it work before, as the batteries were dead when I got it. Supposedly the cart worked ok before the batteries failed... but we all know what that's worth. How would I check to see if they're mismatched like that, or if the controller was reprogrammed? I certainly don't want to waste money replacing the controller if that's not the problem.

[tws31]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Based on your first comment, I read the last thread and noticed this part:

If you have inadvertently changed the M- with B-, you would have the problems you described in both threads. It may be that you are applying the battery straight to the motor and not using the controller output at all. You may want to double check all of those cables.

I took quite a few pics of the connections before I started taking them loose, plus I've looked at the wiring diagrams on here and they seem to match. I'll go back and take another look though. I might post a couple pics on here in a minute, maybe I missed something. It's always good to let another person look over something like this, just to be sure. I wish it would turn out to be something simple like that.

Edit: I added pics. The pic with the rusty bolts is just to show how bad they looked when I got the cart. Also, ignore the resistor on the solenoid, it's not on there now.

[T.Hill56]

Pictures all look correct. Do you have continuity between m- and b- with the controller not activated?

[tws31]

Originally Posted by T.Hill56

Pictures all look correct. Do you have continuity between m- and b- with the controller not activated?

I just went out and checked. The meter shows some resistance when set to any of the ohm settings. If I put it on the continuity setting it does make the meter beep. I checked it with all wires still connected, key off, and in neutral. Is this the right way, or should I disconnect the wires from these terminals?