DCS solenoid wont click cart stalls

[radioman]

Something don't make sense. With the blue wire disconnected and jumping B- to the post you removed it form, the solenoid still don't click? I don't understand why you got a spark unless the controller was putting out B+ due to a fault in the controller. Do you still get B+ voltage on the other connection opposite the blue wire with the red and yel wires on it? NO voltage on controller pin 6, no voltage on pin 5 when pedal is pressed ?? something is opened up.

[radioman]

We going to have to start over. Reconnect everything like it was. Go back to the Ignition interlock switch at the charging receptacle. You should measure battery + (or B+) where the white wire joins a red/white wire, through the Run Tow maintenance switch out on a Green/red wire to the direction selector switch, out on a yellow wire, through the key switch out on a White/Yel wire to the solenoid coil connection on the left of pix. For some unexplained reason there has to be an open switch or connection in this line of connectors and switches. Locate that and we will just have to start over. Don't give up. These things are a challenge to repair. With that circuit not making connection even if the solenoid don't energize, the cart won't run even if jumping the main contacts. Let it set a day or so and go back at it.

[scottyb]

I could be off base but have u checked the F&R ms F&R? Reason I ask is 'cart runs with solenoid jumpered but solenoid is new? ' no?

Which leg of the activation circuit are we missing? + or - ?

[radioman]

Originally Posted by scottyb

I could be off base but have u checked the F&R ms F&R? Reason I ask is 'cart runs with solenoid jumpered but solenoid is new? ' no?

Which leg of the activation circuit are we missing? + or - ?

Scottyb: I was working with him. He was missing the negative side from the controller. Positive was ok. I asked him to try a quick test by jumping B- on the opposite side of the solenoid where the blue wire is with the blue wire disconnected to see if the solenoid would energize and run. Anyway the blue wire was not disconnected and he got a spark when B- connected. Now the positive side is missing. Even without the blue wire not taken loose I don't understand the spark and how it took out the positive side through the solenoid coil.
I thought that would be a good test to see in the cart ran normally if the solenoid would energize.

[tboyd20111]

Thanks again for all you guys helping. I will check out some more tests tonight.

[radioman]

Originally Posted by tboyd20111

Thanks again for all you guys helping. I will check out some more tests tonight.

It is possible you blew the controller too when you didn't disconnect the blue wire. I don't know how but don't do that again. It should have energized the solenoid ok with the blue wire disconnected and jumped to B- to that solenoid post but it still might not move because the controller senses something not right. I suspect you may have started with a bad controller and replaced it with another bad one. I suggest you reinstall the original controller even though it is suspect and start over troubleshooting. First get B+ back on the left hand small terminal of the solenoid that we have already been through. Be sure to switch tow run to tow anytime before disconnecting the controller. I would also suggest disconnecting batt + as extra precaution till you get the old controller back in.

[tboyd20111]

I put the original back in before testing the blue wire. I already boxed up the second controller I purchased and sent it back. I emailed the guy and told him it didn't work so he said he would refund my money. Hard to believe that but happy with his decision. Anyway, i wonder if there's a chance the solenoid blew? If so I should be able to jump it and get the same result I did in the begining with the wheels rolling right? Also when I turn the key on the in dash battery meter is not working either and that just runs to the batteries. I get 37 volts to those wires so I think it fried the meter too. Anyway, I'll have to check on it tonight when I get home.

[yurtle]

FWIW,
A solenoid has a coil that when activated (small lugs), pulls a slug of metal that connects the two contacts (big lugs). The only thing that can really "blow" is the coil can open, which means with voltage applied, nothing happens. On the high current side, the only thing that can go wrong is the contacts can "weld", meaning it won't turn off, or they can get pitted, dirty, or the contact holders can melt, meaning it won't turn on.

Pretty simple device and very easy to troubleshoot.

[tboyd20111]

****, with all your guys respones the truth comes out, I really dont know POO! Everything is installed as original and I think I proded just about every wire I could with the key on, run switch in the run position, F & R swith in F, and pedal pushed. The only voltage I got was 37.5 volts on the battery pack, 37.5 volts on both big sides of the solenoid and the red/yellow wire and red wire on the run switch. No voltage anywhere else. None of the pins except 10 (red/yellow wire). No voltage on the small post on the solenoid. No clicks, no sparks NOTHING.

[radioman]

Something has happened to the other side of the soeloniod + plus source. Start back at
the charger recept white wire to the red/white , the run/tow switch, through fwd/rev, the key switch and the pedal switch limit switch for B+ (See post 2) when everything is set to go. (see post 2) A wire or a switch something has burnt/opened come loose etc.. open.. That circuit is just like a series string of old style Christmas tree lights through all those series micro switches ... when one quits all of them go off. Probably just one is open. Find out where you first fail to read voltage fix it and lets get back to where you started and start over. Don't let those dammn things make a fool out of us. You don't have to know anything to get help here. But you will get some experience. We all learn helping each other.