2010 CC DS not responding or moving

[RidgeviewGolf]

There is no one around to borrow a Curtis Diagnostic tool from. All the courses around me lease their carts and my closest Club Car vendor got rid of everything a few years ago and switched to all EZ-Go carts and parts.

If I knew what Curtis model to buy, I would just get one. I have 26 carts to maintain. Mine are all either 2003 DS or 2010 DS, all with AQ serial numbers. Can I get one Curtis Programmer that will work on all of them?

Thanks

[Stevegrmich]

Originally Posted by RidgeviewGolf

There is no one around to borrow a Curtis Diagnostic tool from. All the courses around me lease their carts and my closest Club Car vendor got rid of everything a few years ago and switched to all EZ-Go carts and parts.

If I knew what Curtis model to buy, I would just get one. I have 26 carts to maintain. Mine are all either 2003 DS or 2010 DS, all with AQ serial numbers. Can I get one Curtis Programmer that will work on all of them?

Thanks

. . you want the Club Car IQDM-P unit . . .

[RidgeviewGolf]

Where would be a good place to buy one? I didn't see any on eBay.

[EasyDoesItCustoms]

Don, sent you a pm.

[dmi518]

Apparently a good place to get one is right here :0)
That's why this is the best forum.
You will love it once you get it. Mine has been a timesaver

[RidgeviewGolf]

He has one to use, and he live about an hour away. I would still like to buy one if possible.

So I am noticing a pattern with this cart. If I charge it, turn off the key, turn it back on, flip the tow/run switch a few times, and then the forward/reverse switch, then it will run for a while. Battery voltage is always over 49 volts, however, I only have 40 volts at the key.

My guess is that my voltage loss is enough to disable a system somewhere in the cart. Now I just need to find out where. Any thoughts?

[kgsc]

If you only have 40 volts at the key then you have a bad connection somewhere in the activation circuit. Bad wire or switch somewhere.

[RidgeviewGolf]

OK, so I took some time away from the cart to do other things and got back into it today after removing ALL of the body.

I hooked my voltmeter negative lead to the last battery. Then I started checking HOT wires. 49.3 Volts across the battery pack, 49.3 at the ORANGE wire on the FORWARD/REVERSE switch, 49.2 volts at the key, 49.3 at the MAIN post of the Solenoid. At this point, that cart won't do anything. I flipped the Key on and off, the F/R switch many times, and nothing.

Went back to the solenoid, put the meter on the BLUE/White wire and had 19.2 volts. I didn't like that, so I unhooked the wore and all the sudden, the Reverse buzzer came on. And guess what? The cart would then move, even WITHOUT the wire hooked up AND no click from the solenoid. So I noticed that the voltage on that wire drops to ZERO when the GO pedal is pushed. I unhooked the other wire and it had 49.2 volts and the cart still moved, no clicking on the solenoid.

So, I experimented. Both wires off. It moved, no clicking. I tried pushing the cart, and it tried to resist moving and the buzzer beeped. I put the cart in TOW and no resistance. Back into RUN and it wouldn't go again. CRAP !!! I turned off the key, and back on again, and away it went again. I tried this several times. If the cart is switched to TOW with the key ON and back to RUN again, the cart won't move. The key needs to be cycled.

Keep in mind, this is WITHOUT the two wires on the solenoid and the cart does run this way.

So what does anyone think of this crazy thing now?