Options? 84 ezgo txt broken/rusted frame

[rockfordpi]

Have an 84 ezgo txt. Engine runs fine, good. Body and frame rough. The body itself is not rusted or dented, just old paint and no fender flares etc.

Looks like previous owner left outside for years with battery leaking acid. The front frame is eaten up and badly rusted where it attaches to the bushing holder that connects rear suspension to front frame (where the rear end pivots up and down).

Replaced the cross-member and welded old bushing holder back to it. However, it just broke again on the backside of weld where it is eaten up.

I think I can weld steel tubing to the new front frame cross member to make a new bushing holder.

My questions are:

1. What year models are compatible where I could just unbolt the rear half of the cart (engine, suspension, drive train, etc) and bolt on to a new body/frame?

I want a "bolt on" solution. I don't want to have to do a lot of re-engineering, welding, retrofitting, machining, etc. If I am going to have to do all that, it probably would be easier to make another bushing holder out of a piece of steel tube and repaint the body.

It is a robbins engine, and I am also not opposed to switching just the engine to another cart, again, if I can find one and there is not a lot of retrofitting involved

2. In the case of the latter, anyone know what size the steel tubing that holds the bushing is?

I guess the first option is contingent on finding and the cost of a compaiable body/frame.

3. Any other ideas/suggestions?

Thanks

[JeffHWV]

The best route depends how nice you want to make the cart, your financial situation, and your fabrication/welding skills.

I'm not an expert on these but I do know the late 89 and newer 3pg frames are different than the older Marathons as the front suspension and axle is different along with the engine cradle and rear axle. If the rust is mainly confined to the bushing mount and crossmember I would fix it even if you have to farm out the fab work doing the most prep work you can to keep the cost down.

My early 89 2pg had significant rust around the battery. I ended up fabbing a new battery tray and 2 new crossmembers (simply angle iron). I also had to weld pieces to the inner brace on the side to weld the tray to. My bushing mounts were solid. I also had to patch the side panels on the bottom and I still need to patch the cowl sides and the seat base. To be honest I don't think it was worth it and it cost me nothing but time. I would look all these areas over real good before I went to too much trouble fixing it. You could probably buy another cart with mechanical problems for a couple hundred bucks if you decide to go that route, you never know.

[rockfordpi]

Originally Posted by JeffHWV

The best route depends how nice you want to make the cart, your financial situation, and your fabrication/welding skills.

I'm not an expert on these but I do know the late 89 and newer 3pg frames are different than the older Marathons as the front suspension and axle is different along with the engine cradle and rear axle. If the rust is mainly confined to the bushing mount and crossmember I would fix it even if you have to farm out the fab work doing the most prep work you can to keep the cost down.

My early 89 2pg had significant rust around the battery. I ended up fabbing a new battery tray and 2 new crossmembers (simply angle iron). I also had to weld pieces to the inner brace on the side to weld the tray to. My bushing mounts were solid. I also had to patch the side panels on the bottom and I still need to patch the cowl sides and the seat base. To be honest I don't think it was worth it and it cost me nothing but time. I would look all these areas over real good before I went to too much trouble fixing it. You could probably buy another cart with mechanical problems for a couple hundred bucks if you decide to go that route, you never know.

Thanks for the response.

I would gladly buy another cart with mechanical problems for $200-300 if I could find one. I really only need the front part of the chassis. One problem is that I am not sure what year models will work.

Based on what you are telling me, my chasis is compatible with carts up to early 89. Any idea how many years back I can go or where I can find that info?

BTW, what you did to yours is about what I have already done to mine.

In additional advice or pointers greatly appreciated.

[JeffHWV]

I have 3 marathons, a 88 solid body, had various minor cobbing done by previous owner, ran good, good rubber faded dark blue paint, I gave a grand for it and that was about what it was worth.

Second one is early 89, motor was locked, was just bad bearing, bad roof and had the rust I mentioned in previous post, all new tires and wheels, new seat, HEI upgrade, I gave $300 for it.

I just bought a cream puff 88, very nice, zero rust, even the battery tray is like new. It did need a few minor things, and I think maybe the crank seals, I haven't fixed it yet. I gave $400 for it but that was from a friend of mine.

Good deals are out there if your patient. Look on Craigslist or local penny saver type classifieds. If you have any big campgrounds in your area that is where a lot of them go to die. Might be a place to check.

I don't think the year is going to be much of an issue. I am guessing all 4 wheel 2pg carts are going to be pretty much the same. Would be nice if someone here knew for sure. I think most of the ones you're going to find or going to be the later models since it is 2016 and you are looking for a cart made before 1989. Probably going to have more of an issue with finding 3pg carts vs. 2pg ones.