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Electric Yamaha Electric Yamaha Golf Cars; G1 through "The Drive" and U-Max Utility Vehicles |
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
09-28-2021, 07:32 PM | #11 | |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: NC
Posts: 773
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Re: 2010 YDRE3, No history, won't run, trouble shooting
Quote:
In fact, tracing power through the ignition circuit, I get battery voltage when in Run and key on to the red/white wire at the pedal switch and then to the brown wire when the pedal is depressed. Key off, or run/tow switched, and no power there. Next stop for the brown wire is the harness connector at the controller, so the controller should be getting battery voltage on pedal depression. Battery voltage is up to 54.1 with charger on, so it isn't low voltage. Charger is blinking green. I am hearing a bit of gas release from one of the batteries, but I can't see that being the issue. Sounds like the controller isn't responding when it gets signal from the pedal, or the controller isn't transmitting power to the motor, or motor gets power but doesn't respond. I need to know what voltages to expect and where when pedal depressed. I'm betting solenoid is good, as the contact closes on the run/tow switch. From there, it appears that it should be up to the controller to push power to the motor, correct me if I am wrong. If that is the case, which terminals should be getting power on pedal depression. Also, how do we test power to the motor without the cart moving inadvertantly...is there Neutral switch, or do we just jack it up? Like I said earlier, I am used to gas where there is a neutral switch to kick it out of gear. Something that seems odd, when I checked voltage on the solenoid, I get battery voltage at the hot side as should be expected....0 on the controller side when in tow, then battery voltage on the controller side when switched to run, but that voltage starts to drop and continues to drop over time, as if it is a capacitor, not a contactor. Is this normal? How do I test the controller, and/or the solenoid? |
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