1998 ezgo 36v please help

[johnalicia]

Originally Posted by johnalicia

thanks for the reply.
resting volts after charge is around 38.4v and 6.4v on each battery. up hill run around 35.5 to 36V (but this verys depend on amount of throttle have to give and will fall to around 35v if have to apply more) even when it slows when it finaly stop it shoots back to around 37v and then voltage begins to slowly clime. I can wait 5 maybe 10 sec. then will have power again. If I try to start again to soon it will slowly move a few feet and stall again but if I wait 10 to 15 sec I will have FULL POWER and can go 50 yrd give or take. The longer I wait the futher I can go before it repeats. If I immedatly get on a flat road after a stall and it will run fine. IF I stay on a flat road and never go up hill or taller grass it stay around 36 to 36.5 sometime hits 37v and hasn't slowed to a stop before.. sorry for being long winded

this is on the BRAND NEW BATTERY full charge. It does have tow switch (dcs cart). and yes solenoid has 38.4v on battery side and controller side post with the key off but with key on you can still here it engage when pedel is pressed and disengage when let off pedel.

when cart does begin to slow under load up hill it will slow down to a stop like the batterys are dyeing and after 1 or 2 sec after being stoped with pedel still pressed then you here solenoid disengage. With volt meter on packs before this happen and while its happening there not a big drop in volts

1.What the chances of it being the controller?
2. How Can I test the controller?
3. Are there any thing else to test to narrow it down before I drop the money on a new controller not knowing for sure this is the problem.

[scottyb]

Are we talking about the stock Curtis control here?

Any mods to the cart? Big tires? Back Seat?

[johnalicia]

Every thing is stock, wheels, tires and no back seat. The controller is a Curtis controller. weather it is the origanl controller from 98 im not sure. I was told it was used by a older man since new on a private golf corse. I did see on the motor someone wrote installed on aug. 2010

[johnalicia]

Every thing is stock, wheels, tires and no back seat. The controller is a Curtis controller. weather it is the origanl controller from 98 im not sure. I was told it was used by a older man since new on a private golf corse. I did see on the motor someone wrote installed on aug. 2010

johnalicia is online now Report Post

[scottyb]

Could be the control is worn and weak, cutting off when any real amperage is run through it then cooling and starting again?

[johnalicia]

I also forgot to mention there is a high picth with coming from rear and get louder with accelartion. I just talk to a dealer and they seem to think maybe moter need rebuilt. could that cause this.

[scottyb]

The motor can cause excessive amperage drain which will make the stock control shut off. So yes.

[johnalicia]

so is there a way to narrow it down between motor or controller. if the both where a couple of dollar a peace it would buy both to make sure I replace both. The motor has been replace in late 2010

[johnalicia]

i meant i would replace to make sure i got the problem

[scottyb]

Depending upon what you want to do with the cart you will replace both for better performance of just repair the motor and ?
So it mostly depends upon what you want to do with tha cart and what you want to cart to be able to do.
If you want big tires and rear seat in hilly terrain then there is no point in talking about whether the stock controller is good or not... because it's not going to cut it.


What make and year is the cart?
Series or sepex drive system?
What size tires are on the cart?
How many people ride on the cart?
Cargo Box or trailer?
Is the electrical system 36 or 48 volts?
What top speed is desired?
Is the used on or off the road?
Is the terrain hilly? If yes, steep or mild hills?
Is the footing sandy or muddy?