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Old 02-11-2012, 09:14 PM   #21
YeahItsFast
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Default Re: Reconnected Club Car Engine - now won't go

We disconnected the terminals off the motor to ohm them out to make sure the motor hadn't burned up, they check out. No continuity between A and F. The diode's okay, took it off and inspected it while we isolated the solenoid to make sure it was good.

At this point the reverse buzzers sounds, but no reverse. Forward is obsolete. The solenoid clicks about 1/8 into pressing the gas, but shortly after it clicks, maybe 1-3 seconds, it clicks again. Is that normal?
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Old 02-11-2012, 10:24 PM   #22
tacomaman
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Default Re: Reconnected Club Car Engine - now won't go

Quote:
Originally Posted by YeahItsFast View Post
We disconnected the terminals off the motor to ohm them out to make sure the motor hadn't burned up, they check out. No continuity between A and F. The diode's okay, took it off and inspected it while we isolated the solenoid to make sure it was good.

At this point the reverse buzzers sounds, but no reverse. Forward is obsolete. The solenoid clicks about 1/8 into pressing the gas, but shortly after it clicks, maybe 1-3 seconds, it clicks again. Is that normal?
mcor could be bad.......f and r switch could be bad as well.
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Old 02-12-2012, 09:02 AM   #23
YeahItsFast
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Default Re: Reconnected Club Car Engine - now won't go

We tested the F/R switch, it's good, jumped forward and reverse to bypass it just in case, nothing.

What's mcor? I'm fixing to search for info.
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Old 02-12-2012, 09:27 AM   #24
Stevegrmich
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Default Re: Reconnected Club Car Engine - now won't go

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Originally Posted by YeahItsFast View Post

What's mcor?
Black box under passenger side floorboard that GO pedal is connected to via a rod . . . when you press GO pedal, it rotates the rod that controls speed via the MCOR (Motor Controller) . . . will have a pigtail coming out back of it . .
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Old 02-12-2012, 10:42 AM   #25
shadowman
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Default Re: Reconnected Club Car Engine - now won't go

this shouldn,t have anything to do with the F&R or the m-cor from what happened its a controller problem just read thur the threads and see how many times this exact thing has happened and the 1 common on every one...( controller ) i really hope i,m wrong i hate to see when someone burns up their controller but this isn,t gonna be the 1st time for it...............................................8 )
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Old 02-12-2012, 11:23 AM   #26
ForBruce
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Default Re: Reconnected Club Car Engine - now won't go

had the same problem with someone at the campground
worked on cart without first switching to "TOW"

smoke comming from the PRECHARGE resistor mounted on the solonoid.

caused by a defective /burnt speed controller.....

further investigation found ALSO a FUSED ( insided welded in closed position ) tow/run switch

replaced controller and tow/run

Crystal ball says..speed controller
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File Type: jpg burnt-controller.jpg (260.5 KB, 15 views)
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Old 02-12-2012, 05:45 PM   #27
YeahItsFast
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Default Re: Reconnected Club Car Engine - now won't go

Nice call, we took the motor controller off and opened the case, i found a burnt diode/resistor in there.
It's near the edge so could be soldered back without separating the boards, only problem is I can't tell what value's the resistor has b/c it's black now.

If I posted a picture could anyone tell me the replacement I would need? I am pretty good with a soldering iron and can make a trip to radioshack to get a new resistor.
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Old 02-12-2012, 05:59 PM   #28
YeahItsFast
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Default Re: Reconnected Club Car Engine - now won't go

Here's a photo, I have a view pulled back a little further but I hoped this was good enough for someone to tell me the colors on a not burnt one.
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File Type: jpg resistor.jpg (29.3 KB, 14 views)
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Old 02-12-2012, 07:45 PM   #29
ForBruce
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Default Re: Reconnected Club Car Engine - now won't go

most likely you burnt the "TRIAC" located behind that resistor.
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Old 02-12-2012, 07:48 PM   #30
YeahItsFast
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Default Re: Reconnected Club Car Engine - now won't go

Well it's messed up no matter what, if I knew what value the resistor had, I could replace it and at least try it out. Is there a universal fee to have the controller repaired? Versus buying another?
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