MCOR Identification

[trigger1937]

Hello to all the helpers. I finally got my hands on a Used MCOR and I'm trying to confirm if it will work in my 2008.5 CC IQ.

It matches the image in the CC parts list but the numbers don't match up. On the white label there are; MCOR II CCI 15302, and below that are; ITW-40-600011, and finally there is; M616. On the end opposite of the plugs is another label that reads; 05/04/06 MO12167.

I tested it electrically and the two prong connector for the "Switch" works fine when I turn the shaft. The three prog connector has 7000 ohms max resistance and drops down to below 2000 ohms when I turn it. I didn't take it to max.

When it cools down I will pull up the floor matt and pull out the pedal group to get at the MCOR in my cart. TahoeDawg help me diagnose my "Herky-Jerky problem down to the MCOR. I hope to swap it out and see what changes when I drive the cart.

I checked and found that all CC from 2005 to at least 2008 use the same part and that is listed in the CC Parts list as 102528501.

Hope someone has more information.

[erict]

Originally Posted by trigger1937

Hello to all the helpers. I finally got my hands on a Used MCOR and I'm trying to confirm if it will work in my 2008.5 CC IQ.

It matches the image in the CC parts list but the numbers don't match up. On the white label there are; MCOR II CCI 15302, and below that are; ITW-40-600011, and finally there is; M616. On the end opposite of the plugs is another label that reads; 05/04/06 MO12167.

I tested it electrically and the two prong connector for the "Switch" works fine when I turn the shaft. The three prog connector has 7000 ohms max resistance and drops down to below 2000 ohms when I turn it. I didn't take it to max.

When it cools down I will pull up the floor matt and pull out the pedal group to get at the MCOR in my cart. TahoeDawg help me diagnose my "Herky-Jerky problem down to the MCOR. I hope to swap it out and see what changes when I drive the cart.

I checked and found that all CC from 2005 to at least 2008 use the same part and that is listed in the CC Parts list as 102528501.

Hope someone has more information.

You might be in luck as David is logged on..

[TahoeDawgZ71]

As long as it will fit, it's compatible. Your ohm readings are normal for an MCOR. Install it and see what you get.

[trigger1937]

You guys are great,... what I call super fast responce. I'll give it a try tomorrow,..right now it is time for home made pasta and meat sauce,.. and a little red wine.

[erict]

Originally Posted by trigger1937

You guys are great,... what I call super fast responce. I'll give it a try tomorrow,..right now it is time for home made pasta and meat sauce,.. and a little red wine.

Red wine.. How about a good micro brew Stout or Porter beer..

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by erict

Red wine.. How about a good micro brew Stout or Porter beer..

[ramblin-wreck]

For the record my Precedent was having the same issues. I figured that since I was going to have to purchase a new MCOR anyway I might as well tear into the old one. I cut it open with a dremel and desoldered the circuit board to remove it. Then I drilled out the rivets on the microswitch and took it apart. Nothing seemed to be burnt or out of sorts with any of the parts but I cleaned everything well with contact cleaner and relubed with dielectric grease. Sealed it back up and ran heavy duty tie wraps around it to hold it together. Ran it for a couple of hours yesterday after i finished and everything seems to be fine. In fact the throttle response is much improved with none of the "rough" spots like before. Of course only time will tell if my repair will hold up but I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

[trigger1937]

ramblin-wreck,.... That is very good information. Too bad you didn't take a couple of pictures. The microswitch failure is usually a "Open/Closed" circuit and either works or doesn't. The pot is a different matter. Since I haven't seen what type of pot is in there it is hard to say,..but most of the time if they just don't go "OPEN" the rotating contact become dirty or contaminated with corrosion and it makes very poor contact. I suspect that is what makes the "Herky-Jerky" movement of the cart. Can you describe for me what the pot looks like. Is it an enclosed round pot that comes in most older radios,.. or is it a carbon pad with a sliding contact????

My good news,..."Thanks to TahoeDawg is that I installed the 2nd MCOR and it seems to work fine. All of the Herky-Jerky stuff is gone and I have good speed at all pedal positions.

[ramblin-wreck]

trigger1937.......The pot is a carbon pad, not the enclosed kind. I dabble in restoring vintage stereos so I was a little surprised to see a pot that looked so different. If was coated with what i assume was dielectric grease that was very black, which is why I cleaned it good and relubed it. I do apologize for not taking pictures. I realized after the fact that I porbably should have but I did not know if it would even work until I reassembled it. Be that as it may though I think anyone with even a little electrical knowledge could do what i did. If anyone wants to give it a shot I'll be more than happy to offer any advice!

Originally Posted by trigger1937

ramblin-wreck,.... That is very good information. Too bad you didn't take a couple of pictures. The microswitch failure is usually a "Open/Closed" circuit and either works or doesn't. The pot is a different matter. Since I haven't seen what type of pot is in there it is hard to say,..but most of the time if they just don't go "OPEN" the rotating contact become dirty or contaminated with corrosion and it makes very poor contact. I suspect that is what makes the "Herky-Jerky" movement of the cart. Can you describe for me what the pot looks like. Is it an enclosed round pot that comes in most older radios,.. or is it a carbon pad with a sliding contact????

My good news,..."Thanks to TahoeDawg is that I installed the 2nd MCOR and it seems to work fine. All of the Herky-Jerky stuff is gone and I have good speed at all pedal positions.

[trigger1937]

Ramblin-Wreck,....Thanks for the info. Being an Electrical Engineer I am shocked they would use such an unreliable device as a critical component of the cart. Then they went to extra measure to seal the switch and the pot in a water proof container. Except it must not be that water proof given the number of failures I have read about. The black "Grease" you mentioned was probably "Carbon paste" and the pad is also a carbon compound. The key failure mechanism will be the copper wiper contact and the "Wear" factor of the Carbon Compound. Once it begins to wear down from the pressure of the wiper,.. and the metal of the contact begins to loose pressure from 500-1000 temperature cycles,..then the contact become intermittant,..and the voltage to the controller become erratic. I can see replacing the switch,..but the Pot is another issue.