New drive belt

[HDBEAVIS]

New to the forum, thanks for the add. I just purchased my first cart yesterday, 2003 Club Car DS (gas). I negotiated a lower price knowing that there were a couple of issues with it. I crossed my fingers that nothing was major. First question.......The guy gave me the old drive belt saying he had just replaced it because it was worn and "flipped over" in the pulleys. He said ever since, the cart engages hard when you press the gas. This was obvious during the test drive. When you press the gas it engages real hard and spins the tires. After you get going it runs smooth though. When I got home I put the old belt back on to test and everything smoothed out. I looked up the part numbers on the belts and the new one appears to be compatible. Is it normal for a new belt to just need to break in? The old belt has part number 1016203, the new one has 10986. Do I need to put the old belt back on and wait it out or could this be indicative of a problem somewhere else? (I did notice when I turn the rear pulley by hand it sounds dry)

I'll post addition question(s) in a new thread.

[Fairtax4me]

Probably has a couple of issues.
To start, Chuck that “new” belt straight in the garbage.

If the old belt was flipping over that usually means something is totally worn out in one or both of the clutches. Usually it’s a broken spring or worn/broken helix buttons in the secondary clutch. It could also be a broken spring and worn out fly weights and/or worn slide buttons in the primary. This is also causing the hard engagement of the clutches.
When the slide buttons in the primary clutch get worn they cause the clutch to stick open and the engine has to rev too high to make the clutch close in to engage the belt. This usually results in the clutch slamming shut on the belt, rather than gradually and smoothly closing to engage the belt.
Remove the belt and look at the sheaves (cones) of the clutches.
They should be nice and flat. If the sheaves look grooves or wavy, there’s a good chance the clutch just needs to be replaced. Usually the secondary clutch sheaves don’t wear as much as the primary, and any waviness is minor enough that it can just be rebuilt.
If the primary clutch has any grooving deeper than 1/16” it’s best to just replace the clutch.
Less than that it can often be rebuilt but rebuild parts can be almost as expensive as a new clutch. Ive used several of the sub-$200 aftermarket primary clutches and they work very well.

On the secondary clutch look down to the bottom of the V where the sheaves meet. They should sit flat against each other. If there is a gap between them that’s a sign the clutch is jammed or the spring is broken.

How do you plan to use this cart? Riding on paved roads mostly, or will you be using it on trails and fields/ tall grass? Do you have plans to put bigger tires or a lift kit on it? If so, it may be a good idea to install a torque spring in the secondary clutch and install a severe duty drive belt.
If you just need it for golf cart paths or riding around the neighborhood, a good rebuild of the clutches will make sure you never have belt problems again. And I like to use Club Cars heavy duty drive belt #1017188 on all of mine. It gives a little better power on takeoff and is more resistant to slipping if the clutches get wet.

[HDBEAVIS]

Thanks for the reply Fairtax4me, I am going to try to check out the things you mention the next couple evenings

[HDBEAVIS]

I did some checking.........the rear clutch does not appear to have any grooves and the sheaves appear to come together all the way around, I saw no gaps. Visual inspection best I could did not reveal any apparent break o fthe spring. The front sheaves seem flat on the "cone part" but down where it appears to go from angling to flat there is a groove/lip. Not sure if this is normal as I suppose that is where the belt rides. The big thing I did notice that I think may be my problem is that with the belt off I pressed the gas pedal and sometimes the outer sheave, of the primary clutch, slides in smoothly other times it slams in hard. I have driven it a few times now with the old belt on and have realized that the problem hasn't completely disappeared but seems to happen less often and primarily just when I first get in it and take off or if it's been sitting for a few minutes, but not as bad as the "new" belt was. Seems as though my issue is with the drive clutch. Can these be greased or am I looking at just needing to replace it?

For some of your other questions:
It has a 3" lift kit on it and RHOX wheels with RHOX XLP 205/65x10 (20.5x8.0-10) tires. I live in the country so it's primary use would be down country roads, around our few acres of land and occasionally around a camp ground. No major off road stress or trail riding though for this machine.

[Fairtax4me]

OK. They work as a pair, and IMO if you have to rebuild one you really should rebuild both. The secondary usually wears out the "buttons" that the helix rides on as the clutch opens. Not terribly difficult to replace, but you need to be creative to get the clutch reassembled.

The primary sticking is almost always wear of the slide buttons. As long as the clutch sheaves are not badly grooved then it should be fine to replace those and the weights and it should be good to go.
There should be NO grease or oil in the clutch as that attracts dirt and will cause heavy wear due to abrasion. Everything is made to function without any lubricant.
Usually the weights are worn out and have a lot of play which can lead to the clutch not reacting properly to changes in speed.
The thrust washer in the middle can be flipped over and re-used as long as it has not been flipped before.
There is a bearing in the middle of the primary clutch that should spin pretty easily. Try to spin that, if it's locked up that bearing is $50 and sometimes needs some persuasion and heat to remove.
I'd still recommend a torque spring for the secondary. Those tires are bigger than stock and that takes away power on the low end for climbing hills, going through grass, or hauling people/cargo around.
Not necessary but a good upgrade for about $45.

Clutch parts and upgrade parts are readily available from Cart Parts Plus http://www.cartpartsplus.com/golf-ca...lub-car-clutch

There are also options to replace the primary clutch with an aftermarket if you search around that bay place or the jungle store. I have a couple of those and they seem to hold up pretty well.

[HDBEAVIS]

Thanks for all the info. Big help as I have added a new machine to the stable so catching up on the technology. Clutch operation seems to be very similar to what is in my snowmobile. I have new clutches and belts on the way so should have this issue behind me soon. I hate changing subjects in the same thread so will post other questions separately.

Thanks Again!