Question on power spring for clutch

[cgtech]

no, you cant install the spring backward. i was only joking about the "twisted wrong direction" thing

[bkc77]

I kinda figured you were kidding. But when things arnt working the way they should i leave nothing to chance.
My main concern with the whole situation is when helix is in the wrong position it's metal on metal on the sliding Sheave. These are brand new parts and don't want to mess them up.
I should add that even when clutch is like the pic, it drives fine. I don't think it shifts out fully but I'm ok with the top speed as is. It's mostly used to get around my property.
I will try to run down road and break hard and note the position of things.

Thanks
Brian

[Mike Mac]

Bkc, Both clutches have to work in unison. If one is not at 100%, causes the other not to work to full potential.

[bigstik40]

Just a W.A.G. here, but is it possible that you haven't installed the spacer between the driven pulley and the transmission and the sheaves are being allowed to spread too far??? Anyway, something to check !! RAY

[bigstik40]

OK-Forget my post!! just reread the thread and the spacer can be clearly seen in your second picture. It would seem that maybe too much material has been cut from the sheaves, allowing them to close together too far. So far in fact that the helix is allowed to "jump" over the mating ramp. I think you need to send the pics to your driven pulley supplier and see what he thinks.

[Mike Mac]

Brian, here is a picture of a 22 that I did. Its a stock sheave, not cut. With the concierge/umax spring. smallblock450sl can get you one. See how deep the sheave is in the helix?!

This picture can be made bigger in The G8 Club, on page 457.

[bkc77]

Thanks Mike, I think im gunna order the umax spring and give it a try.

Brian

[smallblock450sl]

Reread the post. Some things have to be considered here. G1's (6-ramps shoes ,3- on spring seat/3- on sliding sheave) for contact "ramp to aluminum surfaces protecton" because the engine runs in forward or reverse. On 4 cycles, the secondary only runs in a counterclockwise rotation, so, the "ramp shoes" should be in contact with the sliding sheave at rest, then as the sliding sheave moves toward the transaxle, the aluminum would move away from the ramp shoes. I' do not know were you bought the secondary kit from, don't care. I do like you installed the "spacer" Good luck on what ever you chose.

[moyboy]

Did you every find the cause of the sliding sheave hitting the spring seat in the opposite direction? I too put in a torque kit and noticed there is metal to metal contact between the two.

[sho305]

If the aftermarket spring has no tangs then it has no preload to force the ramps together, this will happen. It can happen when you let off on the gas and the strong spring makes the rpm stay high so the engine brakes. However I would think it to not be enough to cause any issues, if the alum actually wears (more than just touching) I'd take the spring out. Personally I'd recommend anyone to try the umax spring they don't cost much and work pretty nicely to raise rpm, stock yamaha part and quality, engineered to do that job, and you can put them in with just a couple pieces of wood instead of a strap (I have put one in by hand but you better eat your wheaties that morning and have help to put the sheave/nut/key on while you hold it). Or run a Plowmans setup as he really knows what he is doing. No name springs are a bad deal, don't use one unless someone you trust recommended it. The umax spring has tangs, its certainly thicker than the stock one, it is also longer, also assume your old spring is much weaker than it was new. The secondary was not designed to use these huge aftermarket springs, but they can work ok, but I still don't like them lol. They are a bandaid for what you should do and that is change the tuning of the primary clutch, something that is difficult or impossible to do to a stock yami primary. I'd also recommend you get a new nut to go with your spacer when you put a new stronger spring in as some have had them come off or strip out.

Stock yamaha the G1 runs backwards for reverse so the secondary also runs both directions and has no preload. All the 4 stroke carts run one direction and have tangs on the stock springs to adjust preload that forces the ramps together. The preload: if you increase it will make the clutch want to downshift more when load is applied for more rpm quicker when you gas it and carry more rpm at part throttle. Yes the stock spring only does so much as its not that strong, but you can wind it up pretty tight so rpm stays up all the time I've done it. The umax is longer and stronger also has tangs to preload it. Aftermarket springs are just stronger and longer no tangs. The longer and stronger spring puts more static pressure on the clutch all the time to shift to a lower gear. This tends to affect more at lower speeds while the preload affects it more at all speeds. The only bad side is more static pressure is more belt friction and loss of energy. You don't need that much pressure for 10-20hp to keep the belt from slipping. The preload and ramps generate more pressure mostly only under load (when you gas on it) and not all the time like static pressure does. The main job of the secondary is backshifting and belt tension.