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Electric Yamaha Electric Yamaha Golf Cars; G1 through "The Drive" and U-Max Utility Vehicles



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Old 07-29-2022, 04:49 AM   #11
Cartmaster
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Default Re: Smaller electrical lines on new solenoid..no power.

I am trying to work between two of your threads at the moment to see if I can help out. I can read diagrams no problem but i do not know the layout of your cart, so i am struggling a little.

From what I can see, that breaker that is substituting for the solenoid needs to be removed from the equation. I can see that the power from the battery pack is on two wires, One thick one that should go directly to the solenoid and a small red is connected to the same solenoid terminal. This small red wire is what supplies power to the control circuit of your cart. It should go from the solenoid to a fuse and then on to the run/tow switch. From there it feeds the ignition switch and most other circuits requiring low amperage power. this includes one side of the solenoid small terminals, the forward reverse directional switch and the controller. Most of this appears to be on red/yellow wires except maybe the reverse buzzer. The Ignition switch then feeds power out when turned on, to the controller and the pedal switch on red/white wires. So all red/yellow wires should have power all the time the run tow switch is on and the red/white wires should have power when the main ign switch is turned on.

The other small terminal on the solenoid is fed negative on what looks to be a red/black wire from the controller when all other sensors are giving the correct information to the controller.

I think what you need to do is check/reinstate the wiring on the solenoid and then start checking that you have full battery voltage on all red/yellow connections with just the run/tow switch on and full battery voltage on all red/white wires when the ignition switch is turned on.

The small red wire that feeds the fuse needs to be on the same large solenoid post as the positive fat wire that comes from the battery pack positive. the other large solenoid post should only have the fat wire that goes to the controller (P) terminal. As far as I know the solenoid does not care which way round you do this, as long as the small red wire is fed directly from the battery side. Again, I dont think it matters which way round the red/yellow and red/black are on the solenoid as i do not think it is polarity sensitive.

I am sure Volt_Ampere or someone will stop me if I have any of this wrong. I am a Gas cart guy, but understand electrical circuits fairly well. If we can check that all this is as it should be, we can then start checking all controller input signals to locate any faults that caused the PO to override the solenoid.

Obviously everything seems to work with that breaker installed, but we need to find out why it was done.

If everything checks out on the positive side, we need to find out why the controller is not feeding the solenoid a negative signal to energize it.

I am going to assume at this point that because the cart seems to work fine with the power breaker, most of the wiring is good and that most input signals are good, such as the Pedal switch, throttle position sensor, forward reverse directional switch, Speed sensor (Tach) etc, I am also assuming that the " Optional IR Transceiver " is probably not fitted, so you may have a spare four wire connector hanging somewhere if part of the main wiring loom.

I hope this makes some sense, and if you look at your diagram again Start at the battery positive and follow the lines as I have described. You may start to understand how these diagrams work.

Remember, I have never looked at one of these carts, I am just going by the diagram, so another member will hopefully check what I have said.

Oh, and to answer a question in your other thread, the Receptacle is indeed the charger socket on the cart. If the charger works, you can ignore the wires from this to the battery and controller for now.

You mention a second fuse and in one of your images i see the cart was fitted with lights. I am going to assume at this point that one of those fuses was for those.
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Old 07-29-2022, 12:22 PM   #12
SamanthaP0930
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Default Re: Smaller electrical lines on new solenoid..no power.

Oh my goodness thank you soo much for taking the time to respond! You explained it very well!
Last night I was attempting to trouble shoot and noticed, which I'm 75% sure there is no power going to that entire cluster of wires with the original fuse. The same cluster that goes to the headlights and tail lights. I was getting zero power. The cart has 4 LED lights that I disconnected for the time being, they have their own box (fuse?) as well in line w the wire, which again isn't apart of my current mess.
Following your instructions, the 1st step of tracing back to the tow switch, there is not one... I have a switch on the dash as well as the forward reverse, that's it though. At this point I don't know if I'm suppose to call that a relocated tow switch or a toggle key switch. There is no key switch. I have power to the front switch and power to my forward reverse switch.

Am I moving the fuse line elsewhere?
Also you said there may be a hanging connector? There is. It's black, black-white stripe, white and red.
One more thing, not sure if it matters but the new fuse holder that was added has a 40 amp fuse. The original one has a 3 amp. Does that matter? Not sure why they woukd go so high, the lights are seperate.
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Old 07-29-2022, 04:09 PM   #13
Volt_Ampere
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Default Re: Smaller electrical lines on new solenoid..no power.

The solenoid circuit should have a 3 amp fuse that powers the run/tow and ignition switch circuit. Follow the Yamaha diagram for that. If that circuit is working, the controller should energize the solenoid when you push on the throttle switch. Not sure what the previous owner was doing bypassing the solenoid unless he knew that the controller was not able to energize the solenoid. That is a possible failure mode of that Moric controller.
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Old 07-29-2022, 05:21 PM   #14
SamanthaP0930
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Default Re: Smaller electrical lines on new solenoid..no power.

There is no power to that 3 amp fuse. It's been replaced with another fuse connection with a 40 amp fuse. There is no tow switch?? I ran trace the solenoid wires, they are taken out of the main hardness and ran to the solenoid. No tow switch
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Old 07-29-2022, 05:35 PM   #15
Volt_Ampere
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Default Re: Smaller electrical lines on new solenoid..no power.

Battery + goes to terminal on Soleonid which goes to the 3 amp fuse which then goes to the run/tow switch. Look at the Schematic for that.
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Old 07-29-2022, 11:29 PM   #16
SamanthaP0930
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Default Re: Smaller electrical lines on new solenoid..no power.

I fully understand that.
Are you suggesting I take apart what is there and run it like you are saying?

Currently: battery+ to solenoid
Solenoid to 40 amp fuse
40 amp fuse line runs back into cluster and under the driver's seat to the pedals.
Out of the pedals to the front to the only "on off" toggle left on the cart. There is no key switch. Line stops at the toggle switch on the dash.
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Old 07-30-2022, 02:11 AM   #17
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Default Re: Smaller electrical lines on new solenoid..no power.

My main concern here is similar to VA's. If you need to pull all the wires out of the conduits to check where they go, then do so. It's easy to tidy it up when done. I am suspecting the controller may be bad too, but we need to put the wiring back to stock first. Once we get that done, diagnosis will be simple. You say there is no main switch and no tow switch. Just one in the dash. In an earlier picture, I think I saw a switch on a slanted panel under the seat area. This should have been your tow switch. The other switch in the dash will be your main ignition switch. Your lights should be on a separate switch somewhere. First I would remove any wiring that feeds the lights and start over getting the solenoid and associated wiring for the controls back to order. Can you now follow how it should be by the diagram?
You need to trace all the wires that originally went to an from both switches and the to the solenoid. You also need to make sure all red/yellow and red/white wires should be getting their power. You need to find the correct fuse connector that feeds the solenoid and reinstate the 3 amp fuse in it. This will get you power to the solenoid, controller and all the other associated control sensors as I described earlier. At this point, we can start the actual diagnosis. Once we have power where we need it, there is a simple way to test solenoid is good before further diagnosis.

I will be out all day today, so maybe VA will be able to talk you through this.

Quickly before we go out.

How are you checking for power at the solenoid? are you using a volt meter? if so, where are you probing for negative and positive?

Assuming you have a meter, you need to put your negative probe on pack negative and use your positive probe to find power. This will make things so much easier if you are not doing it this way already. I suspect you may already have power at the solenoid on the red wire but not got the negative normally supplied by the controller. If this is the case, we can do the simple test of the solenoid as i mentioned previously. All we need to do is supply it with a negative supply to see if it clicks and activates the rest of the circuit. If you try this before I or VA come back to you, make sure you remove the existing negative wire that comes from the controller on the red/black wire and use a spare piece of wire to connect that solenoid terminal to the battery negative. This should then make the solenoid activate as soon as you switch on the positive side of the circuit. If the cart now operates the same as when the breaker was overriding the solenoid, we now know we need to find out why the controller is not giving the negative signal to activate the solenoid.

Oh, and jack the rear of the cart off the ground first in case the wheels start to drive.

If you are not sure about any of this, wait for one of us to come back to you as what may be simple to us may be daunting for a beginner. We fully understand your frustration.

I may be back later but remember, I am in the UK and on a way different time frame to you LOL.
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Old 07-30-2022, 08:37 AM   #18
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Default Re: Smaller electrical lines on new solenoid..no power.

If your cart isn't wired the same as the schematic, then you have to fix that. The stock wires should be there. If this is beyond your ability, you need to get someone to help you or do it for you. This wiring is not very complicated but it's hard to deal with a mess that someone else had done before.
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Old 07-30-2022, 01:43 PM   #19
SamanthaP0930
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Default Re: Smaller electrical lines on new solenoid..no power.

I have no problem following them and putting them back. I just didn't realize that's what you wanted me to do. I am hesitant only because it actually works at the moment (with that other none solenoid installed) They are all pretty much unwrapped, I just put them back in the conduit stuff to paint.

Instead of waiting for a tow switch to arrive, can I make one? The toggle was there with nothing hooked to it.
I purchased a multimeter, honestly not sure how I tested the solenoid, I feel like I did many YouTube videos to walk me through it.

On the wiring diagram, are all the connections suppose to be in a connector, i.e. deutsch insulated, grey ??
Helps me know which ones have been modified.
On the diagram when a line runs into another line, there's a circle. Is that where the wires are getting these "arms" ?
Hopefully I'm making sense to you lol
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Old 07-30-2022, 01:47 PM   #20
Volt_Ampere
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Default Re: Smaller electrical lines on new solenoid..no power.

Those circles mean the wires are connected together. All of the actual connectors are shown on that diagram. You can use a regular SPST toggle switch for the Run/Tow switch. You can use your multimeter to ohm out the connections with no power connected! Use the continuity setting on your meter. It should beep when there is a connection between the leads.
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