g2 stalling

[ShawnQ]

Sounds good.

I'll take a closer look later and see if I can make sense of your schematic.

My factory wiring is a mess. Hopefully I can make it work.

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[CP241]

Best part about this conversion, you dont need most of the factory wiring. Only 2 wires you need are the pickup leads off the flywheel. Everything else I ran my own wires and cut out the stock

[ShawnQ]

Originally Posted by CP241

Best part about this conversion, you dont need most of the factory wiring. Only 2 wires you need are the pickup leads off the flywheel. Everything else I ran my own wires and cut out the stock

I'm trying to make since of the schematic you made and it's hard to do without the Chrysler parts or the cart in front of me.

I'll try to mess with it this evening

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[ShawnQ]

My triangular 3-pin connector that appears to go to the flywheel pickup has the following:

A white w/black stripe - connect to new ignitor
A white w/red stripe - connect to new ignitor


a solid black wire - where do I connect this?

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[CP241]

You don't need the black wire. Just the white/black and White/red.

[ShawnQ]

Originally Posted by CP241

You don't need the black wire. Just the white/black and White/red.

What about the rest of the wires on the stock ignitor wiring?

Can I remove them from the harness, or do I need to leave them all in place so other items will function?

Also, a little off topic but you seem pretty familiar with these carts so I'll ask. There's what appears to be a red cotton jacketed wire that runs from the starter solenoid + post, all the way around in the harness to the drivers side behind the seat, up on the rear fenderwell, near the voltage regulator. Are you familiar with this one? It has been spliced and repaired before, and I accidentally broke the repair when moving wires out of the way. This harness is a mess. I'm tempted to just spend the money and buy a new one!

[CP241]

You won't need any of the other wires from the stock ignitor. Actually the connector on my ignitor was trashed so I just cut the entire thing out and made my own harness. I ran my own power wire to the solenoid (so the ignition module only gets power when it's running) and make SURE you ground the chassis of the ignition module as well. I ran my own ground as well. Then the other 2 wires go to the ballast resistor and ignition coil. It's really pretty straight forward. I also replaced all of the wires to the starter/generator with my own 4awg wires.

AS for the wire you're questioning, that should be the main power wire. There should be a 10A fuse somewhere near the voltage regulator as well (though it may have been moved or removed at some point).

When I got my G9 the harness was pretty much unsalvageable. I started to repair it, gave up and just made my own for most of it. It was less work (and less $) than trying to repair or replace it with a new one. Especially if you're going to swap ignition setup, doesn't make a lot of sense to buy a new one since you'll be cutting into it anyway. Actually, overall my G9 was in such terrible condition when I got it, i was really doubting if I would ever be able to get it going. But the chrysler trick did the job and it has been 100% problem free ever since. I had briefly considered selling it (because I've got 4 golf carts now and no more room in my workshop) but like it much better than the newer/nicer EZGO so decided to sell that one instead and keep the G9.

On the G2 i'm building, i'm putting a 420 clone in it, so it's all going to be pretty much wired from scratch. IT had the original G2 harness, but it's so cut up, hacked, and chopped that it's really not even worth saving except for misc connectors. I'll make my own harness for that too just so I can put in the starter/generator and have it operate like a golf cart.

This may help you undo some of what has been done. http://www.courtesygolfcars.com/yamaha-schematics download the G2a wiring diagram. That site has the best wiring diagrams. You can find others in stickies in this forum and online, but they're low resolution and hard to read. The PDF version on that site is much, much better.

[ShawnQ]

The red/white on the starter solenoid feeds more than just the ignition, right?

So, I cant remove the factory wire and just put my own spade connector there...correct?

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[ShawnQ]

Got it back together and it fired right up.

I found a few suspect wires on both the coil and the factory ignitor...so I'm not sure if the new ignition fixed it or the new wiring. Either way, runs great.

Thanks for the walkthrough!

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[CP241]

Glad you got it up and going! Best part is, for $30 it's got a lifetime warranty from most parts stores and they keep it in stock if it ever happens to go bad :) enjoy!