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Gas Club Car Gas DS, and Precedent golf cars |
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06-07-2021, 03:15 PM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 13
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fuel line replacement and correct connections
I've inherited this 98 CC with an fe290 in it. In another thread, i received help and successfully pulled the engine and replaced the crankcase gasket. Also put on a new carb.
BUT...there were (and still are) some fuel lines NOT connected. I want to make sure everything is hooked up correctly. I have line coming from tank to pump, one from pump to carb, and one from engine to pump (just learned it's for the pulse). but, There are 2 lines not hooked up. They go to a T and go into the frame under the tank. I'm assuming they are just vent hoses. Question, should there be a vent hose from the carb and one from the black connector on the top of the tank? If so, the barb on the black connector is broken. Do I need to replace the black connector? I guess it is just venting into the engine compartment. Is that bad? Also, the vent tube from the carb just barely reaches (assuming that's where it connects) so it keeps coming on when driving. I'm thinking of replacing all the fuel lines since I don't know how old they are, with the blue fuel lines. Right now the line from the pump to the carb is a thicker black fuel line. Is it ok to just replace with clear blue line? |
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06-07-2021, 04:41 PM | #2 |
Bonafide Nincompoop
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Charlottesburg Va
Posts: 8,987
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Re: fuel line replacement and correct connections
The fuel supply lines can be clear/yellow/blue whichever color you want fuel lines.
The pulse line needs to be oil and vapor resistant hose. Plain black 1/4" fuel hose works best for that. Be sure its just the right length to not droop down in the middle. It needs to go uphill all the way to the pump. The vent hoses are not 100% necessary, but can be replaced if you want to. The vent that goes on top of the tank is only available from Club Car as far as I know, and they only sell it as a whole kit with the new vent, grommet, hose, and clip attachment to secure the hose to the frame. Also just to check, do you have 2 fuel filters installed? There should be one between the tank and pump, and one between the pump and carb. The one before the pump is probably the most important, as it keeps junk and debris out of the pump. |
06-07-2021, 06:59 PM | #3 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 13
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Re: fuel line replacement and correct connections
Thanks for the reply Fairtax. Is the pulse line the only one that needs to be oil and vapor resistant? I ask because the small section of line after the fuel filter to the carb is that same black hose, but I'd like to switch everything out for fresh hose (except the vapor line, which I'll be sure is clean).
I probably won't replace the vent on the tank if it's not required. This cart doesn't get a lot of use anyway. and, yes, there are 2 tiny fuel filters where they belong. I'll replace them, too. Last question, what is the metal plate with wires on top of the tank for? |
06-07-2021, 09:06 PM | #4 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Kingsbury, TX
Posts: 37
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Re: fuel line replacement and correct connections
The metal plate with wires should be your sending unit for your gas gauge. If you look inside your tank you will see the float that is attached to it.
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06-08-2021, 07:33 AM | #5 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 13
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Re: fuel line replacement and correct connections
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06-13-2021, 07:23 PM | #6 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 13
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Re: fuel line replacement and correct connections
Just leaving this here in case someone needs a shot of the gas lines for reference. I replaced most everything with new blue gas line. Fresh gas and this cart is running great.
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06-15-2021, 07:42 AM | #7 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 647
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Re: fuel line replacement and correct connections
the blue stuff is good if you want to use 3/16" you dont need hose clamps. stretch the ends with needle nose and slide them on.
Stens is the best brand, I found that cheaper stuff that i've ordered online / bought at rural king etc always tends to get hard once its been in the engine compartment awhile. seems like the Stens brand stays fairly pliable |
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