Rebuilding an engine?

[crash12888]

Originally Posted by lockman1

Note: the FE350 has hydraulic lifters... there shouldn't be ANY clearance!
(don't mean to step on your toes crash... I've been watching your build, VERY IMPRESSIVE! )

It's just a single cylinder gas engine John... don't be intimidated!
And so you know, some of the specs for your FE350 will be different then the FE290 in the 94 manual!
If and once you get your 08 manuals, and a little help from BGW, You'll realize it isn't that hard at all!

No hurt toes here Don, I don't know why I can't get past the old style, I gotta pay more attention. not the first time.

[lockman1]

Originally Posted by John5

Thanks for the info and advice Lockman. I will try to get a compression tester and test it on Saturday after my son's birthday party is over. That is if the wife let's me out of the house Seems like the mechanic said the compression was to spec, but that the valve or something was leaking causing it to be sluggish after it got hot. Does any of that make since? Should I run the cart for a while and then check the compression?

First things first... Check your air box lid, hose, and carb bolts for tightness!

I still think that's "Prime suspect"! especially after the mech. had the carb off!!

[John5]

Well after looking today I noticed the intake hose was collapsing in the 90 before the carb. I cut about 2" off and reattached to the carb. Seems to have solved some of the problem. Only thing now really is the rear end seems sluggish. It's almost like a motor brake on an electric. It wasn't that way until the shop worked on it. I think I will try to figure out how to change the fluid in the rear end this weekend. I also adjusted the idle so it wasn't roaring and now it shifts better. It sounds like it is knocking some like when you get bad gas in your car. Will the jet in the carb affect any of this? I noticed it looked like the shop had it out. One of the threads was stripped and I cleaned it up and rescrewed it in.

[John5]

Well Iome spare time this weekend and changed the fluid in the rearend. Put a full synthetic gear lube in it. Seems not not be so sluggish. I have driven it pretty hard the last couple of days and seems to be good. I only have one concern, snd that is the knocking sound when accelerating. Not sure if the fuel/air mix is off or what. It sounds like a preignition knock like you get with bad gas or bad tune-up on a car. I think I'll get a new plug and change the oil to make sure it's not that. All was well before the "shop" did a "full service" on it. Still havn't made it to Sears for that compression tester yet though. Hoping I don't need an engine now!!!1 Thanks for everyone's help. I'll keep you updated.

[GLEEMO]

Let us know what happens

[DOOmsman]

Pinging(spark knock) is lean. Take it for a hard run,
shut it down, no idling, and pull the plug.
It should be cardboard box tan.

Take the plug wrench with you and do it where you have room to run and stop.

[John5]

So I went to check the amount of gas left in he tank since I don't trust the gauge 100%. That's when I noticed I could feel air blowing from around the carb. I noticed the carb appears to not be seated back on the block properly. Until I can take it apart and inspect it I have gotten some high temp silicone to put around the gap. I'm hopeing that this helps. I would think that would have some affect on how well it runs. I believe Lockman recommended to check the carb bolt tightness. Good call. My question is how should the carb sit on the block? Is there a gasket? I'm guessing the "mechanic" really had no clue what they were doing. On another note, it does seem to be running better. Still havn't changed the oil. Can I get a filter at the local auto store? What grade oil? I believe I saw this info on a thread somewhere.