g1 timing

[joesnuffy]

Your very welcome.

Joe

[tutister]

The black wire part of the four wires coming from the plate is the ground to the plate itself
36 ohms from the coil.

[joesnuffy]

Between the brown (brown wire goes to source coil on stator thats's the big coil on stator) and black wire (goes to ground on stator) should be 350 ohms you said 36 ohms your scale maybe off I get that stuff confused also sounds like that is correct to me.


Your issue is wrong trigger/pulse coil if it only has the red wire coming out of it? which I believe it does re-looking at your pictures I can't really tell for sure but it does look like 1 red wire to pulser coil only? can you confirm that only 1 red wire is going to the pulser coil?

I do think you will need to leave the modification you did to stator plate as it is because you may have some snowmobile ignition parts and maybe some golf cart ignition parts possibly (flywheel, stator plate etc) and it is running well in forward. I could also be wrong about that and it will have to go back to where it was. I would try it like it is first.

You will need to do is hook up your new pulser/trigger coil 2 wires to your exsising golf cart wiring harness White/Red wire and White/Green wire. The other 2 wires that need connecting from your stator plate to golf cart harness is the black wire as you mentioned goes to the ground on stator plate and the brown wire which goes to source coil on stator plate that's the big coil on stator plate. That's 4 wires total to hook up from stator to golf cart harness.

Hope that helps,
Joe

ps For an example below is a pulser coil for a snowmobile with one wire the wire is yellow in color which yours is red. In the picture you can see a small tab on the lower right bottom where the other end of the winding in coil are grounded to the coil body I think I see that tab also in your picture you posted which would be where they grounded the other end of your windings in your pulser coil.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/19386513416...F2kkVv50oJQfs%

[tutister]

i do have a red and green wire to pulsar coil
37.5 ohms across coil. no continuity to ground.

[joesnuffy]

That looks to be the correct pulser coil for the motor. The ohms between the red and green wire should be around 15ohms I think you said you had 37.5 ohms so that is off even more than double. Higher resistance in a pulser coil normally means it very well could be damaged. Both your pulser coil and your source coil look like they have both gotten very hot the tape on them looks cooked very brown in color.

Did you try to switch the wires to see if it would run in reverse? Their should be no continuity between the ground of pulser coil and either wire red or green which you said you did not have. With your multimeter set to measure AC voltage and cranking the motor over with starter the red and green wire should produce about 4-8 volts. The extra resistance in your coil might be why you had to alter your timing.


Measuring the ohms for the source coil which is the larger coil on the stator measuring from the brown wire to ground that should be around 350 ohms. I would check it because it looks like it has gotten very hot also.


Try measuring it also since you have stator removed.


Here is some other checks you can do to check while your waiting on the new pulsar coil . These checks will help check the general wiring of the cart and its switches both key switch and pedal switch. With the stator 4 wires reconnected and stator grounded you will disconnect the wires that go to the cdi of golf cart which should be on top of passenger fender behind the solenoids and make your checks from there. These checks will not verify the cdi unit or the diodes in it but you can build one for about 20 dollars if it turns out to be it.

1. Black wire (which is a ground as you know ) to ground should be 0 ohms
2. Black wire to Black White wire with switch off or throttle released should be grounded basically 0 ohms (the Black White wire is the kill wire for cart)
3. Brown wire to black wire 350ohms (this test is also testing your source coil in stator and wires getting to it)
4. Orange wire to black around 1 ohm (this test is testing your ignition coil)
5. White/Red*Wire to Black Wire*should be open with key "off"; grounded with key in "Forward"; ~15 Ω with key in "Reverse" (notice the 15 ohms is what pulser coil should be yours may measure 37.5 ohms)
6. White/Green*Wire to Black Wire*should be open with key "off"; ~15 Ω with key in "Forward"; Grounded with key in "Reverse". (notice the 15 ohms is what pulser coil should be yours may measure 37.5 ohms)



I hope this helps,
Joe

[tutister]

thanks again I will test everything else tomorrow.
already did some checking of the wiring harness. seems good
keep you posted.

[joesnuffy]

I also would like you to do is to clean the black ground wire where it screws onto your stator very well. It is the ground that supplies the cdi with its ground all the way up on passenger fender.

Check all your bullet connections also and make sure they are not corroded but very clean you may have to use some fine sand paper or emory cloth etc.

Make sure your coil that feeds your spark plug the one with orange wire going to it is grounded to the block of engine. I had to make a small wiring harness on mine I grounded the ignition spark coil to the motor and also to all the components on the passenger fender. I don't think this is your problem just make sure spark coil is grounded. I did this because after using my golf cart for like 4 years it started missing not firing constantly but erratic this fixed it. I've been running cart now for like 14 years she's part of the family now I get the mail and take trash off daily putting 1/4 to 1 mile or more per day.


Here is a pic of how I grounded mine its not pretty one wire is blue but I used green tape on connections to remind me it was a ground wire.



Hope this helps,
Joe

[tutister]

i have been in the garage since 8 am
I have sortied out the problem.
first off my digital ohm meter is off( had to dig out the Simpson)
pulsar coil 15 ohms, charge coil around 400.
put everything back the way it should be.
figured out my ignition switch was forward to the left and backward to the switched the wires to the solenoids and away it goes.
checked timing at 050 marks are lined up perfectly .
runs well in reverse also .
thanks joe for helping a newbie like me understand how these things work!

Terry

i am assuming that the cdi changes timing in revers so that it runs the same as forward?

[joesnuffy]

Congrats,
Way to go I'm happy for you. It sure feels good when you get one going they are rock solid dependable. I don't post much here much I've been a member since 2009 but when I saw you having major problems with your ignition I stepped in to help since I'm pretty good with them. I even make my own electronic modules for my antique 2 stroke outboards that replace the points.


In my humble opinion I don't think the cdi changes the timing especially on the stock cdi not so true on the chineese scooter aftermarket cdi they use a timing curve that folks use to replace the stock one. The actual spark timing on stock set-up has more to do between the magnets in the magneto North and South poles passing the pulser coil. The current also changes direction in the pulser coil the ground is swapped from white/green to white/red and visa-versa when you turn key switch from forward to reverse and vice-versa as you saw with your test. My golf cart runs in reverse but not as well as forward that also leads me to believe it isn't .051 inch is not much of advance whatsoever and it would run in reverse just not quite as-well. Also the fan on flywheel isn't cooling engine as efficient etc .

Hope that helps,
Joe

[tutister]

mice had got to mine before I acquired it. someone prior to me repaired wiring
after all the work it was frustrating that it would not run.
thats why the extreme measures to put it in time to make it run .
but with your help and info and a meter that works (lol) we persevered .
I am a car guy and retired machinist.
thanks again for jumping in.

Terry