Yamaha g2 air box

[Jamesplumbing06]

Where can I get a complete new air box with all the guts inside? I don't mind upgrading oem but I want it to be original for most part. My theory is ran great off assembly line. Why can't it run like that again? But the last genius that owned it. He tried putting "salt and pepper" on it. The surge thing on the side is missing. The suction thing inside the box is also missing. He could've jetted the old carb?? I have done changed to a new one and I am not a machinist and not going to put a drill bit to any carb. I don't want to break speeds riding around rough farm land. And my kids ride more than me. So don't waste time trying to make me faster. I want torque on low end to get up hills and embankment.
Every diagram I see has these parts but they are not listed on parts list.
Everyone says "check and seal air box ". But I haven't found any replacements or even suggestions where to find

[nobuckbuild]

i do not think you are going the right direction here with , first is the carb sealed to the engine 2nd is the carb spacer intact? it is common for them to crack and leak air , next air wise with the g9 you only need to make sure that the air filter and lid along with the elbow hose is sealed. i think the power your looking for is not related to the engine. the problem you need to address is clutching and belt , 1st how old is the belt and whats the top width measurement , it should be 1 3/16 wide when new anything less than say 1 " wide and your not going to get full torque , second you probably have a worn secondary clutch that needs service and a spring upgrade to either a umax spring or high torque spring
your looking to pull hills not go fast

[Jamesplumbing06]

Ok so far I have replaced primary clutch, drive belt, starter belt, carb( spacer is ordered),spark plug, oil, sylinoid, rebuilt pump,and replaced air and fuel filters. When we drive it. It seems to run with puff puff. Can't see crack in spacer but mount studs just spin. So it and gasket is ordered. I have to do secondary clutch. My reserve is wanting to make sure the cart as a whole will go and run right. But yes low end torque is what I need. Everything is stock. I will be getting a lift and new wheels eventually but same as clutch just waiting. I like to make sure stock works before I start going nuts customizing.

[sho305]

You should get a umax spring (yamaha utility spring) and a cut secondary sheave, both those will give you a lot more low speed power. The spring is not that much, you can cut your sheave as well. You can also get a Kevlar HD belt at CPP they are about 50 and little wider, they also help give more bottom end, but if you run all three you can get a little belt drag at idle. Also check your tension cable under the gen pulley, replace or make a solid one from an eye bolt/etc. If loose or broken that will make it bog on hills. Worn belt also make them bog 1" wide is limit and that is worn beyond what a lifted cart needs but ok for a stock size tire cart. Usually you do all the clutch stuff when you lift one.

All you have to do is hog out the main jet a little. I removed just the silencer above the gen on mine it ran terrible, and my box was sealed up good. I jetted it richer it ran great.

[Jamesplumbing06]

Ok got it going again today. Running great. Still need the spacer which is ordered. Cleaned the carb and cleared jets again. Put in an in-line gas filter. Going to do a major day test on it Saturday. We have a redneck golf tournament. So if it makes thru the day? I will start ordering and asking more questions.