Is there a direct fit LED replacement for oem Marathon headlamps?

[Goliath]

I have a 1992 Marathon chassis Western, and would like to replace the headlamps with LED units that draw less power than the stock 55w halogens.

I found several LED mini floods, but they're all around 120w each.

Anyone find a direct fit replacement? The OEM ones are around 2" x 6" with the glass lens. I think they're stock for many golf carts around that period.

Thanks!

[Goliath]

Wow, no one has changed out their halogens for LED?
I would have thought this was done hundreds of times, but can't find any threads with compatible parts...

[PingEye3]

Originally Posted by Goliath

Wow, no one has changed out their halogens for LED?
I would have thought this was done hundreds of times, but can't find any threads with compatible parts...

Look to see if the halogen is an 881 bulb. 881 replacement led bulbs are for fog lights on cars.
Here is example, lots to choose from
https://www.amazon.com/Alla-Lighting...s%2C155&sr=8-8

[Goliath]

Thanks, but I believe it's an H3 bulb.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by Goliath

Thanks, but I believe it's an H3 bulb.

So you Googled "H3 bulb led replacement"? I found a lot of stuff, but don't know if any will work.

[Goliath]

Yep, and after a few hours of unproductive searching, it appears that replacing an incandescent bulb (halogen) with an LED part, is not a great idea.
Due to the focal properties of the housing, installing an LED part will yield wildly varying light patterns, and usually a poorer light quality.

HID is apparently better, but depends on the length of the manufacturer's choice of housing.

So, I"m going to stick with halogen. But, there are two options that, according to several sources, increase light output almost 50%. The two options, for those looking to do this in the future, are:

Osram Night Breaker (H3)
Narva Rangepower + 50 (H3)

I ordered the Narva bulbs, as they are slightly less expensive, and supposedly have a slight edge over the Osrams. I have not received them yet.

[yurtle]

Yeah, I wasn't thrilled with the first MAG lights that were LED.

[Goliath]

Funny you mention that. I have several MAG lights and really like the weight of them. I did some research, and there's many kits for converting them to LED.

BUT, the cost of the kits is either close to, or more than a whole new light, so now I've got some expensive MAG paperweights.

[yurtle]

I guess it's OK to hijack your thread at this point.

I finally had to toss my bigg D cell Mag. As good as I was (or thought I was) at removing batteries from things that didn't get used very much, I neglected it too long. I think it was 5 D cells, and was a lethal weapon. Well engineered and built, unlike a lot of cheap knock-offs these days. Had a spare bulb in the bottom.

[Goliath]

Battery makers are pretty good at making them leak-resistant these days.
But, before tossing something that has a lot of acid damage, you can try a few things.
Go to any auto parts store and get a can of foaming battery cleaner. That will usually get most of it out. For really stubborn, or bad acid corrosion, I will dilute some pool muriatic acid (Home Depot also sells this cheap) by 50% and apply.

The pool acid cleans anything rusty, or battery corroded in seconds. You just have to plan what to do with the acid after using it. Have some fresh water handy to rinse quickly, and some baking soda to neutralize. Gotta be careful with the acid, though. It eats cement, metal, etc, I usually use a large tupperware or 5 gallon bucket.

Yesterday, I had a remote control for a DVD changer that had severe battery acid damage, as I hadn't used it in 5 years, and forgot to remove the batteries. I took it apart, and had the contacts looking like new in 5 minutes with some light acid soaking.