36v ezgo help needed

[yurtle]

My buggie's Y2k compliant.

[txbuggieman]

Ok, so I tested the foward/reverse switch as someone had mentioned to me to try. At first, that middle post had no power whatsoever. So just for kicks I poke around on the other terminals to see what I get. The cart was in reverse and I was getting about 34-36 volts on the top and bottom post at the same time.

Decided to try the pedal to see what I would get, and the wheels start turning.

I just have no clue. Seems like theres a short somewhere?

Its working for now, so I dont know how to find the problem

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[yurtle]

Originally Posted by yurtle

You might want to eliminate the 4 wire Molex connector that connects the throttle box with the wiring harness. It's usually located as shown, between FNR and controller/solenoid. I soldered mine.

Did you try this? Pic on Post #6.

[scottyb]

Poking around the F&R and switching direction then the cart starts working again? Makes me suspect a problem with the F&R high amp contacts or micro switches.

[txbuggieman]

Maybe just replace the switch? Hard to really tell at the moment since it's working fine. I put it on the charger to give it a good charge, maybe when I get back to it, itll be non working again like it keeps doing

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[handtools]

The way your cart acts is pretty much exactly how my cart acted when my AXE controller failed.

[txbuggieman]

After charging for a while, had a little over 38v on the battery pack, I'm back at the same problem again. Drove it into the garage to charge with no problem at all, turned it off, plugged it in, came back a few hours later and bam, no worky. I'm gonna inspect and clean all the terminals on the foward/reverse switch tomorrow and remove the plug that was mentioned and direct wire it and see what that does

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[yurtle]

Originally Posted by txbuggieman

Maybe just replace the switch? Hard to really tell at the moment since it's working fine. I put it on the charger to give it a good charge, maybe when I get back to it, itll be non working again like it keeps doing

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Best way to tell is check the FNR posts during a drive. If they are starting to fail, they'll definitely be getting hot. Lick fingers first.

[txbuggieman]

Originally Posted by yurtle

Did you try this? Pic on Post #6.

Ok, I eliminated this plug, as well as removed all four connections on the F/R switch to inspect and clean the terminals. Only 2 looked just barely slightly off color, the right and left terminals. Cleaned everything off, reconnected...nothing. Funny thing is, I hoped on it this morning to try and move it out of my way and it worked just fine. Drove it around a while, parked it and turned it off, came back a little while later, it still worked fine. Let it sit a few more hours while I worked around the house, came back to it...not working again, after just sitting there. The problem is so intermittent.

So its currently not working, if there is a test I can do to rule something out, please let me know.

Solenoid clicks and green light on the controller blinks when accelerator is pressed

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[yurtle]

I'd remove the FNR and open it up and visually inspect the contacts. Look for sunken contacts that are below the plastic that holds them. If they are dirty, you can clean them up, and reassemble. Use dielectric grease or Vaseline and tighten the center nut pretty snugly. If the contacts are sunken into the plastic or pitted or at an angle - not flat and straight - you need to replace.

Intermittent problems are a b!tch to find. The Molex took me a while to find on mine. I could just barely bump it and it would change states from not running to running. Is the center nut on your FNR tight enough? When it doesn't go, does it throw out any LED code, besides the initial blink code for throttle type? Have you checked pack voltage when it doesn't go?

Beyond that, there are several troubleshooting guides in the Stickies. Try the throttle test first. If the solenoid always clicks, the only other low current - wires vs. cables - thing that could prevent you from going is the ITS, and you eliminated a common problem with the Molex.

Checking voltage here:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...e-testing.html

should either move your search from wires to cables, or identify a bad controller.