2008 Precedent Build

[kpowers]

Hi all,
Last weekend I went to Arizona to pick up a 2008 gas precedent and came home with a gas and an electric. Cleaned up the electric and it will be sold Monday. A buddy is buying it for his dad. The gasser had a few issues that I knew about prior to driving out of state. The bed had been overloaded at some point and it broke the underbody. It ran but had a weak battery. I replaced the battery and all is well so far. I spent a couple days cleaning the red dirt off the car. Apparently this car has seen some mud. The plan is to custom paint, custom seats, wheels and tires, and some other goodies I’ll fab along the way. Yesterday I cut out a grille for the body. Today I made an aluminum shift lever. The piece of pipe that was stick welded to the shifter had to go. Underbody and underbody supports should be here this coming week and I should be able to get paint on the body. Still trying to decide if I’m going with lazy life, doubletake, or a local custom shop for seats.

[kpowers]

The shifter installed. I have to re-tap the rod for the F/R lever.
Cut the black and white wire and adjusted the idle so the car will idle.

[Fairtax4me]

Where did you cut the black and white wire? The kill circuit needs a ground when the key turns off so the engine doesn’t diesel. A 5 pin relay can be used to keep the kill circuit open while it’s running and kill spark when the key is turned off.
You’ll also probably want an idle spring for the primary clutch so the belt doesn’t drag and make it hard to shift F-R.

[kpowers]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

Where did you cut the black and white wire? The kill circuit needs a ground when the key turns off so the engine doesn’t diesel. A 5 pin relay can be used to keep the kill circuit open while it’s running and kill spark when the key is turned off.
You’ll also probably want an idle spring for the primary clutch so the belt doesn’t drag and make it hard to shift F-R.

You can see it in the bottom right corner of the last pic I attached. Turn the key on, press the pedal to start and idle, turn the key off and it dies. Seems to work just fine. I had read on here about someone doing it, wasn’t my idea. It hasn’t dieseled at all, is there something I’m missing? Oh I forgot to say I ziptied the microswitch so I can start in forward, neutral, or reverse. I’ve turned the idle down to where the belt isn’t turning at all, shifting seems easy. I’ll keep an eye on it. I plan to get the clutch machined and a heavy duty belt because I’ll probably launch my jet ski with the cart.

[Fairtax4me]

Idling too low is not a good thing. This is a pressure lubricated engine and it may not have enough oil pressure at low idle speed.
The idle clutch spring from CPP will also help with low end power because it delays when the primary engages the belt, which means the engine is turning faster when the belt starts to pull, meaning better power on the bottom end. Better pulling power if you plan on pulling anything out of a boat ramp. If you’re doing all the work on the secondary just spend the extra money and make the primary right as well.

I thought you cut the wire on the engine, dunno exactly how that wire plays in at the GCOR connector, but I’d suspect it’s probably fine that way as the key switch should still ground the kill circuit.

[kpowers]

Updating this. Got tired of waiting for a buddy to spray the body so I went and got some rattle cans. I’ll do the pro job at a later date as I’m trying to get this done by father’s day. Ordered a new seat, hopefully that gets here in time. Also ordered the modz flip 4 rear seat. My underbody and underbody support parts should be here Friday. Coming together slowly but surely. Goals for this weekend are to finish the paint, get the underbody on, draw and cut a piece of sheet metal for the mat to go on and powder coat the grille, F/R shifter, and spindles.
Still searching for 14” wheels and tires

[kpowers]

In prepping for my wheels and tires to show up I jacked up the cart and started inspecting the front end. The spindles had up and down slop on the kingpins. I turned a piece of delrin on my lathe to make a spacer and now everything is all tight.

[Fairtax4me]

Nice work!
I use brass thrust washers on a few carts to keep the slop out of the king pins. They're supposed to have some up/down movement, and have a spring wave washer at the bottom, but on bumpy roads it causes them to clunk and knock pretty bad. I like the delrin idea, but you should probably put it on the bottom. If it's on top it may wear out quickly with the weight of the front of the cart on it all the time and the spindles turning.

[kpowers]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

Nice work!
I use brass thrust washers on a few carts to keep the slop out of the king pins. They're supposed to have some up/down movement, and have a spring wave washer at the bottom, but on bumpy roads it causes them to clunk and knock pretty bad. I like the delrin idea, but you should probably put it on the bottom. If it's on top it may wear out quickly with the weight of the front of the cart on it all the time and the spindles turning.

I thought about that. I saw a video where jakes I think, makes a kit just like this with a much taller kingpin and a delrin bushing. I’ll keep an eye on it and see how it wears. The best part is I had already made the bushing for a different project and the dimensions were perfect. All I had to do was part it off twice. Took like 1 minute total time.

[kpowers]

I repainted the body. There’s issues with it but it’ll have to work for now.
Got my new rear underbody yesterday and installed it. That allowed me to mount up my rear seat kit. It’s a modz flip 4. Overall the kit is decent. One of the brackets was laughably out of square. Like WAAAYYY out. Got my wheels and tires in and sold my old ones on offer up. My light kit should be here today. I have more wiring supplies coming Saturday. Unfortunately I don’t think my seat will be here before I take the cart out next weekend.