2000 CaryAll/Turf 2 no start/wiring questions

[busby]

Good afternoon all. First time here, first post. Typically I'm pretty self sufficient at diagnosing things without assistance, I was a Mercedes-Benz technician for 20 years ... so I'm well trained, just not with small engines.

I have a 2000 Club Car Turf 2 that was given to me. The previous owner got it from the county he worked for thinking he could figure it out, he couldn't. So far I'm doing no better.

Here's what I know and where I'm at.
- It has a Kawasaki FE350, no spark.
- I've tested the two micro switches that engage starter/generator, good
- I tested starter solenoid, needs replacement ... but works intermittently (can get to crank)
- Cleaned bad fuel, flushed pulse pump and installed new inline fuel filter. getting fuel to carb
- Pulled carb apart & cleaned pilot and main jets
- couldn't verify if rev limiter was good or bad (solid state) so I disconnected brown grounding wire to bypass from videos I've seen online
- installed new spark plug

That's where I stand. It seems to have good compression and starter is doing it's job.

I've ordered a new igniter/coil, replacement carb, new rev limiter, starter solenoid. They should be here in a couple days with it being the 4th of July tomorrow, I know it's kind of a shotgun approach ... but I'll replace one thing at a time to verify where the issue actually was.

With that all being said ... this is where I need help:
There is wiring under the seat that obviously had something plugged in and is now missing. It's loomed in the factory harness, so someone should know what goes here and maybe can clue me in to what needs to be replaced.

Before everyone starts going off on the rats nest of wires ... please remember that I got it this way and will be cleaning it all up one circuit at a time lol ... thank you in advance for any assistance.

Pics of wires I need help with:

[lockman1]

Welcome to BGW busby!

Yellow, Red, Black wires... it could be missing the Voltage Regulator,
usually it's a small square box left of the cable cam/microswitches it the Electrical Components Box,
but I can't really see it in your ECB pic!
it should look something like this... (the box hiding in the upper left hand corner of the pic, with one hold down bolt)

084.JPG

Is your cart a "key start"? or a "pedal start"?

[Fairtax4me]

Looks like someone unplugged the microswitches on the shifter lever.
They may have also bypassed some of that wiring in the black box to make it start.

I don’t see the 6pin relay in the black box for a factory “key start” system, so I think we can assume yours is supposed to be a “pedal start” cart.

One of the microswitches in the box should have a white wire with a black stripe going to it.
That will be the ignition kill wire from the engine/coil. If that is connected to the wrong pin on the micro, the coil will be grounded and you’ll have no spark.
Also depending if they’ve “converted” it to start with the key, that wire may be grounded until you press the go pedal. To eliminate any hacked wiring from the no-spark diagnosis, find that wire on the engine where it comes down on the clutch side and connects to the black wire from the rev limiter. Unplug it (there’s a bullet connector) and make sure the black wire can’t touch anything. Then test for spark. If you still have no spark the coil has likely failed.

[busby]

Originally Posted by lockman1

Welcome to BGW busby!

Yellow, Red, Black wires... it could be missing the Voltage Regulator,
usually it's a small square box left of the cable cam/microswitches it the Electrical Components Box,
but I can't really see it in your ECB pic!
it should look something like this... (the box hiding in the upper left hand corner of the pic, with one hold down bolt)

Attachment 188942

Is your cart a "key start"? or a "pedal start"?

Thanks for the response. The voltage regulator is down in the box.

I have a pedal start.

[busby]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

Looks like someone unplugged the microswitches on the shifter lever.
They may have also bypassed some of that wiring in the black box to make it start.

I don’t see the 6pin relay in the black box for a factory “key start” system, so I think we can assume yours is supposed to be a “pedal start” cart.

One of the microswitches in the box should have a white wire with a black stripe going to it.
That will be the ignition kill wire from the engine/coil. If that is connected to the wrong pin on the micro, the coil will be grounded and you’ll have no spark.
Also depending if they’ve “converted” it to start with the key, that wire may be grounded until you press the go pedal. To eliminate any hacked wiring from the no-spark diagnosis, find that wire on the engine where it comes down on the clutch side and connects to the black wire from the rev limiter. Unplug it (there’s a bullet connector) and make sure the black wire can’t touch anything. Then test for spark. If you still have no spark the coil has likely failed.

Attached are more wiring pics & the diagram I am working with.

Looks like the top switch has one orange and one green wire, the bottom switch has two white with black stripe wires and one black.

From what I can see, they appear to be connected correctly?

I'm thinking I'm going to pull bed and seat frame off and completely rewire the looms correctly with proper wire colors and length. Rid the cart of all the spliced wires/butt conectors/etc.

Just puzzles me with that grey loom that looks factory over there with connectors. Everything I'm seeing in owners manuals/service manuals online doesn't have anything like that? I'm a little anal when it comes to things being installed right, it's driving me nuts

[deleft]

What’s unplugged may be the switch to a previous or malfunctioning linear actuator to lift the bed. I have a 2000 like yours and it has a 6 pole switch to operate it. Does it have an actuator or look like it might have had one? I am about 2000 miles from it so I can’t verify the colors of the wires on mine but I’m guessing that’s what it is. I won’t be home for 14 days but will check after that if it’s still a puzzle

[Fairtax4me]

Originally Posted by deleft

What’s unplugged may be the switch to a previous or malfunctioning linear actuator to lift the bed. I have a 2000 like yours and it has a 6 pole switch to operate it. Does it have an actuator or look like it might have had one? I am about 2000 miles from it so I can’t verify the colors of the wires on mine but I’m guessing that’s what it is. I won’t be home for 14 days but will check after that if it’s still a puzzle

Good point!
If it had that the switch would be on that side mounted to the front of the seat box.
It could have had a hydraulic lift from the factory with a pump motor and reservoir mounted on the right side behind the fuel tank.

[busby]

Originally Posted by deleft

What’s unplugged may be the switch to a previous or malfunctioning linear actuator to lift the bed. I have a 2000 like yours and it has a 6 pole switch to operate it. Does it have an actuator or look like it might have had one? I am about 2000 miles from it so I can’t verify the colors of the wires on mine but I’m guessing that’s what it is. I won’t be home for 14 days but will check after that if it’s still a puzzle

I think we have a winning answer. I've attached a picture of where there looks to be a missing switch and possibly a choke? Took the weekend off, will be replacing the parts ordered tomorrow or Tuesday & will post up my results.

Thank you.

[Fairtax4me]

Yep someone removed the switch, and probably the entire bed lift mechanism.
And they removed (or broke) the choke button and rod. The Choke rod should be attached to the lever on top of the air filter box. The actual choke mechanism is inside the box.

[busby]

Update:
Installed new carb, new fuel pump, new spark plug, new fuel filters, new starter solenoid, new ignition coil.

I can get it to run, rev up with the engine manually with the lever on the top of the engine ... but not with the accelerator pedal. Once I use the pedal & the microswitches disengage, it wants to stall.

It's a new carb and I think I have the air/fuel fixtures somewhat close? But the wiring has me stumped.

I've traced the wiring and the blue wire from ignition to solenoid is hot once ignition switch is turned on. It starts when ignition switch turns on too. But once I push accelerator pedal, it wants to die.

The orange wire on opposite side of solenoid is't hot until I push accelerator pedal, but then it wants to stall.

I'm going to try and post a video, but beware ... I suck at taking videos, try not to get motion sickness ... but any help would be appreciated.

Again, this is my first cart experience, so take it easy on me with the jokes if it's something simple lol