Always needs choked, even when warm

[Nlb7928]

My 97 DS is kinda being a pain. It always needs choked for 2 to5 seconds, even when it's been run. I'll drive it for a mile, stop for 2 minutes, then when I jump back on it needs choked again.

The fuel filters show fuel in them, so I don't think it's losing fuel. If it's sucking air, how do I figure out where it's sucking from? I replaced all the fuel lines last year.

I've cleaned the carb numerous times since I've owned it the last 8 years. However, I can never get the jets out. They are just too stuck to back out. I just spray them and reassemble. Is it just time for a new carb?

Any advice would be appreciated!

Thanks,
Nathan

[Scott quail]

I would change the carburetor. 8 years is a pretty good run considering all the crap they put in gas these days. They arent really that expensive and are easily installed.

[Nlb7928]

I just hate to throw parts at it. I would rather figure it out where it's leaking from, or what the problem is, then buy the appropriate parts.

You're probably right, and I'll probably get one, but I would rather confirm or prove that's the problem first.

[superpro56]

Have you ever soaked the carb and then sprayed it out? Sometimes that varnish can be a pain to remove, especially if you are not completely disassembling the carb. Only potential problem is you would have as much invested in the cleaning agent as a new carb would cost.

[Fairtax4me]

I've never had a carb so bad the jets wouldn't come out, but if yours are that stuck it might be time for a new carb.
You don't necessarily need to get the main jet out, but you need to get the pilot screw out on the side, and need to clean that and the ports that run through the carb there.
The pilot screw sends fuel to a couple of tiny tiny ports in the side of the carb throat where the throttle butterfly closes against the bore. When the butterfly is closed only one of them provides fuel, then the other ones start to provide fuel as soon as the butterfly starts to open slightly. Once it's open more than about 1/4 of the way they stop giving fuel as the air velocity in the carb goes up and the main jet takes over, supplying almost all of the fuel at that point. For initial starting you need those first few small ports to be clean. The idle mixture screw protrudes into the first one of those ports, so it directly impacts the starting fuel mixture. If the idle screw or any of those ports are clogged you will have hard starting no matter what.
The idle mixture screw on an OEM carb has a notch on the side to limit its travel, this makes it impossible to remove. Cut the notch off with a dremel so the screw can be removed and you can then thoroughly clean the idle ports and the tip of the mixture screw.
When you reinstall the screw turn it in until it just barely seats. Do not turn it tightly or it can damage the screw or the bore. Turn back out 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turn and it should be good. Adjust 1/8 to 1/4 turn either direction from there if necessary. In is more lean, out is more rich. This primarily affects the starting fuel mixture, so it will not make much difference once the engine is actually running.

[kantuckian]

Thanks for posting