2007 EZ GO Eectric 36v TXT Series

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by MarkRatner

I will check that wire for sure. Do you think that wire being loose or disconnect would make the cart appear dead, no Solenoid click, no reverse sound anymore and won't take a charge?

The small wire from the charger receptacle will do all of that except causing the battery not to take a charge.

The only thing I can think of that will cause everything you describe is a bad battery cable. One of the five that connect the six batteries in series.

Or it could be that you've got more than one problem.

[MarkRatner]

Turns out the issue is the mega 60 amp littlfuse. Looks like some of the battery acid ate away at the fuse and with all the bums it rattled broken. Anyone have a fuse I can borrow!

Thanks for all the help.

[JohnnieB]

If that is the fuse in the white wire from the charger receptacle to the Positive pole on the right-front battery, that is why your 36V charger won't charge your battery pack, but not why the cart won't run.

If your battery pack voltage is in the 37V-38V range you stated earlier, the solenoid ought to click.

Also, you ought to have full battery pack voltage on the battery side main terminal of the solenoid, whether the solenoid clicks or not.

Sounds to me like you've found one of three problems.
1. Not charging
2. No B+ to solenoid
3. Solenoid not activating.

[MarkRatner]

Changed out the "new" fuse with my old corroded one and it started to take a charge and it started working. Did allot of running around the campground and play 4 holes of golf and it die again. I think because of the corrosion on the old fuse and the way the fuse is not supported did it in.

I've since mocked up the fuse to be more located over the battery and I put some Styrofoam under it to support it. Now I just have to wait two weeks for a new fuse. Hoping I don't have a more serious electrical problem which is blowing the fuse.

[gornoman]

Originally Posted by MarkRatner

Changed out the "new" fuse with my old corroded one and it started to take a charge and it started working. Did allot of running around the campground and play 4 holes of golf and it die again. I think because of the corrosion on the old fuse and the way the fuse is not supported did it in.

I've since mocked up the fuse to be more located over the battery and I put some Styrofoam under it to support it. Now I just have to wait two weeks for a new fuse. Hoping I don't have a more serious electrical problem which is blowing the fuse.

The fuse should only be employed in the charging circuit. The way it looks in your photo both the white wire (charger) and the black cable (main pack positive) are on the load end of the fuse. This is incorrect and will allow full pack current to pass through the 60amp fuse. It will blow in short order. Move the main pack positive cable directly to the battery terminal, then stack the fuse on top of it and have the white wire alone on the load end of the fuse.

[kgsc]

What he said.. And you can go get a 50 or 60 amp fuse from your local car stereo installer. Looks a little different but same effect.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by MarkRatner

............Did allot of running around the campground and play 4 holes of golf and it die again...........

I'm surprised the 60A fuse lasted that long.
Like others have already mentioned, it is connected wrong.

Even with a stock controller, the current in the cable that goes to the controller will be in the 275A range during acceleration and going up hills.
That 60A fuse didn't stand a chance.

[1fastbuggy]

Hypothetically speaking if you were running a 60 amp between the controller and the battery how much do you think you would lose?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by 1fastbuggy

Hypothetically speaking if you were running a 60 amp between the controller and the battery how much do you think you would lose?

All of it when the fuse blows.

Technically, a fuse has to have resistance to generate heat so that the fuse element will melt open when too much current passes through it.
Therefore, there will be a voltage drop across a fuse.
Exactly how much of a voltage drop depends on the Ampacity of the fuse.

To find out how much voltage would be dropped, measure the fuse's resistance and use Ohm's Law.

Or you could measure voltage across the fuse will charging, divide by the amps shown on charger's ammeter and extrapolate to motor drive current levels.

[1fastbuggy]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

All of it when the fuse blows.

Technically, a fuse has to have resistance to generate heat so that the fuse element will melt open when too much current passes through it.
Therefore, there will be a voltage drop across a fuse.
Exactly how much of a voltage drop depends on the Ampacity of the fuse.

To find out how much voltage would be dropped, measure the fuse's resistance and use Ohm's Law.

Or you could measure voltage across the fuse will charging, divide by the amps shown on charger's ammeter and extrapolate to motor drive current levels.

Johnnie that's way to complicating i just hooked it up to the battery direct and all i can say is wow i cant believe i have been missing all that power.