EZGO 36 volt controller wiring issue

[dannyferris]

ok new to this. didnt realize I started new

[rib33024]

Originally Posted by dannyferris

ok new to this. didnt realize I started new

[dannyferris]

hopefully I can get this figured out before I decide to take it to the rifle range and start target practice. lol

[carp1595]

Check your solinoid.

[JohnnieB]

The 12V batteries = 36V, but they won't give you much run time when you get it running.

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What exactly do you mean when you say "Fully Charged"
I ask because many people believe a 36V battery pack is fully charged when it reads 36V and 36.0V is less than 50% State of Charge. (Fully charged = 38.22V)
Here is a State of Charge chart for future reference.

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The 250 Ohm resistor is not needed for cart to run. Leave it off for now and install after you get the cart running.

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With battery pack at 37V or higher, turn Keyswitch on, Put F/R selector in F and press throttle.
Does the solenoid click?
If not, there is a problem in the solenoid activation circuit.
If it clicks, the problem is in the high current circuit.

Let us know if the solenoid clicks or not and we'll proceed from there.

[dannyferris]

The solenoid is clicking and the batteries are reading 38 volts. I realize that the 12 volt batteries are not going to cut it for run time. I just wanted to get the cart running before shelling out the bucks for new 6 volt batteries.

[JohnnieB]

You've got 38V at the battery and the solenoid clicks. Good.

Connect your DVM negative test lead to the B- terminal on the controller and the positive lead to the M- terminal.
Press throttle until solenoid first clicks.
You should read full battery back voltage.
If not, there is an open or high resistance someplace between the M- terminal and the B+ post on the battery pack.

If so, slowly press throttle to floor.
The voltage should drop to near zero.
If not, check for B+ at blue wire on top push-on connector on the controller.
IF you've got battery voltage there, pull the two push-on connectors with black and white wires attached and measure between the wires with an Ohmmeter.
Should be close to zero Ohms with pedal up and about 5000 Ohms with pedal down.

Let us know what you find.

[dannyferris]

38 volts between B- and M-. It doesn't matter how far I push the throttle down it stays at 38 volts. B+ blue wire to controller is at 38 volts also. Also I did notice, when I had the potbox out of the car for cleaning and inspection, it tested good from 0 to 5k but after install it seems to only go to 2.5k at the controller. I was thinking maybe the fwd rev switch had an issue. tested it out of the car and it seems ok but with solenoid clicked on I'm getting 38 volts to all four lugs. Is this correct? I have also noticed that the 250 ohm resistor across the solenoid is getting very hot when the solenoid is not engaged. I mean like smoking hot! I'm sure this can't be right so I have unhooked the batteries to prevent any type of fire tonight.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by dannyferris

1. 38 volts between B- and M-. It doesn't matter how far I push the throttle down it stays at 38 volts. B+ blue wire to controller is at 38 volts also.

2. Also I did notice, when I had the potbox out of the car for cleaning and inspection, it tested good from 0 to 5k but after install it seems to only go to 2.5k at the controller. I was thinking maybe the fwd rev switch had an issue. tested it out of the car and it seems ok but

3. with solenoid clicked on I'm getting 38 volts to all four lugs. Is this correct?

4. I have also noticed that the 250 ohm resistor across the solenoid is getting very hot when the solenoid is not engaged. I mean like smoking hot!

5. I'm sure this can't be right so I have unhooked the batteries to prevent any type of fire tonight.

1. If one DVM test lead is on B- and the other is on M-, this says you've got a completed circuit through the high current cables, solenoid contacts, F/r switch contacts, motor stator and motor armature. The fact that the voltage does not decrease when pedal is pushed says the control element in the controller (MOSFETs) are not being turned on.

Either the controller isn't being told to pass current or it is being told to pass current and isn't.

However, if DVM test leads are not attached as indicated, this test is invalid.

2. If the reverse microswitch(s) on F/R assembly is (are) closed, the throttle is in half speed reverse mode and will read 0-2.5k.

Shift F/R selector to N or F and the reading should be 0-5k, or check the wiring if it doesn't.

3. If you have +38V on all 4 big terminals of the controller, either the main B- cable from the battery pack is open, or the cables are connected to the wrong places, or you are not connecting your DVM to B-.

The only thing that should be between B- on battery pack and B- on controller is a length of cable (6Ga or larger) and a couple heavy duty ring terminals.

4. The 250 Ohm resistor might get warm, but never hot.

If the 16V reading you mentioned earlier was at B+ on controller before solenoid closed, there was 88 milliamps of current flowing through this resistor, which is at least an order of magnitude higher than normal.

Something in the controller is shorted, or the cart is miswired.

5. Excellent move.

[dannyferris]

OK then, I have been through the wiring on this cart every day since I purchased it and according to the book and the diagram you have sent me, the wires are hooked up correctly. As far as the resistor is concerned, I should be able to run without it( but new ones will be here today). I am on my third controller now. looks like I'm getting closer to the rifle range with this silly thing. Running out of ideas And Money