1986, Limped to a Halt

[cartboy]

Yeah, I'm planning on it . . . next Spring.

[cartboy]

Originally Posted by cartboy

Yeah, I'm planning on it . . . next Spring.

Well, lookie, it's next Spring.

Anyone still wanna help me rebuild this bad boy?

If so, I need to move my car out of the garage and move the cart in.

[Dave Box]

So my unbelievably generous offer of $105 didn't tempt you? Oh well I'm not surprised. Now if you are going to rebuild this thing you have a decision to make at the outset. Are you going to just replace the top end at ~$200 or the whole engine at ~$400. The pros of doing just the top is clearly the lower cost but the con is that if the bottom is weak the addition power from a fresh top end may cause the crankshaft to let go and you are back to where you started. Another pro of just the top end is that it is an afternoon's work whereas the entire rebuild is going to be a week or so and may involve a trip to a small engine shop to press on the bearings. I guess that you have to think about how long you will keep the cart and what you want to do with it.

Before you start here are a few tips.

I learned long ago that I am not as smart as I think I am so I like to get a pile of ziplock bags and a sharpie. As I pull bits off I put them in a bag and label them Cylinder head bolts, cylinder nuts, fuel pump bolts and so on.

The engine is Japanese so all the nuts and bolts are metric, the clutch is American so it is imperial, you will need an eclectic set of tools.

Use a little sketch pad or a camera to take pictures, for example the head bolts are different and need to go back in the correct holes.

You are going to have to replace the crankshaft seals even if you elect to only rebuild the top end so you will need a cheap two arm steering wheel puller and some long 6mm bolts. You will also need a clutch puller which you can buy for $49.99 or make for $5.99.

PB Blaster is your friend buy a can now you can thank me later.

So get that car out of there and let's get on with it.

Dave

[saunteret]

Dave,

I'm actually going to rebuild my top end tonight. (Here's my thread http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-e...ml#post1016450)

I don't want to derail this thread, but have a quick question. Can I use Permatex on my gaskets? Or do I need to grab some RTV?

Cartboy,

I got my 1986 EZGO last year and had to put on a new clutch, and I am replacing my top end tonight (UPS just confirmed my parts arrived...). Just hang out here on BGW and you'll be back up and running in no time. I was really apprehensive about working on my cart, but it's really not all that hard. Just be sure to label all the wiring to your forward/reverse switch, solenoid, where the fuel lines go, remove your muffler, and pull the engine. It's not terribly hard. Best of luck and and you'll be up and running in no time.

[ScooterMcTavish]

You could also look at my rebuild thread here:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-e...s-rebuild.html

The 3PG has some similarities with the 2PG, and I think I ran into most of the problems you can run into during a rebuild.....

And used a full can of PB blaster on my rebuild.....

[cartboy]

Well, see, the rub is that two of the last three posts are way beyond me.

I don't even pretend to know anything about anything.

All I know is what I have posted, which included rebuilding it this Spring, which has arrived.

I bought the cart just after it was rebuilt, although I don't know the extent of that, and it last a couple years with me.

I can take pictures as I go, or, whatever you guys need to help me.

Thanks.

[Dave Box]

Saunteret; Permatex is going to be fine :
Slow-drying, non-hardening brush-top sealant approved for use in aviation as well as automotive applications. Temperature range -65°F to 400°F (-54°C to 204°C); resists gasoline, oil and grease.
Scooter, welcome back, it's been a while. Now boys don't be shy jump in and help the Cartboy by pointing out where I go wrong.

OK Cartboy let's do it.

1. Disconnect and remove the battery
2. Disconnect the cables to the carburetor (make a sketch or take a photo)
3. Remove the fuel line to the fuel pump.
4. Remove the spark plug
5. Loosen the generator tension bolt
6. Remove the drive belt and the starter belt.

Now you have a choice you can either label all the generator cables and the posts on the generator and remove them or you can remove the generator with the cables attached and gently hang the generator over the firewall. I prefer to remove the cables but it is your call. If you do remove the cables you MUST put a thin wrench on the nut under the cable to stop the post spinning. Failure to do this will result in the wires internally being ripped off.

7. From the front passenger side of the engine are a pair of red and blue wires, follow them to the connecter and snap it apart.

8. Undo the two bolts between the muffler and the exhaust pipe, then look at where the muffler bolts to the bracket and remove those four bolts, remove the muffler.

9. Look at the passenger side of the engine and you will see the four bolts that hold the engine in. Remove the top two and loosen the bottom two (they are in slots to assist when installing the engine.

10 Look at the drivers side of the engine (cylinder head) and locate the three bolts. One of these is in a slot loosen this one and remove the others.

If I haven't forgotten anything you are ready to lift out the engine so give it a tug and see what happens.

Place engine on bench, look to the horizon with eyes of flint grey and say out loud "Truly I am a God amongst men" and grab a frosty malted beverage.

Let us know what happens.

Dave

[Dave Box]

...... and a part I forgot

7a. Remove the rubber pipe between the air filter and the carburetor.

Dave

[ScooterMcTavish]

Hey Dave,

Glad to be back for my seasonal visit to BGW. Since I'm under snow 6 months of the year, I markedly avoid cart, golf, and other summer-like forums. Instead, I drink beer, eat chicken wings, and get fat.

But hey, I always try to post three helpful responses for every question I ask when I come.

Mines a 3PG so I can't offer any better advice than you did. However, in step 9, when removing my engine, the mounting bolts were underneath the engine on the frame, and had to be removed by feel.

Looking forward to step 11:

- Attach steering wheel puller to flywheel
- Spray liberally with PB
- Tighten puller
- Drink a beer
- Cry for 15 min
- Tighten puller
- Drink a beer while crying
- Tighten puller

Repeat for 3 days until the flywheel shoots off across the garage

[Dave Box]

Scooter, Step 11 is exactly my experience and step 12 removing the clutch was just a little worse but hey not a word to Cartboy. So much fun and so little time.

Dave