Voltage reducers

[gumpbuck]

Sorry for the delay guys. I've been away for a while.
Here is a link to the type of fuse block I used. I found it at a local marine/boating supply shop.
http://www.bluesea.com/products/5025..._Bus_and_Cover

[gumpbuck]

Originally Posted by kedvan

with the fuse block, did you run just the Green wire (power) from the voltage reducer to the block? what about negative?

I ran positive from the reducer and negative from the last battery in my pack. I'm no electical expert!! But I'd say follow the instructions from your reducer. Instead of running the wire to a single accessory, I ran it to the fuse block. Now, I have room for up to 6 accesories. I simply attach each accessory to the possitive and negative port on the block.
The key or limitation will be if I end up running too many accesories and draw more than 30 amps? I'll let the pros chime in on that one.

For now, I am able to run headlights, green LED fogs and a standard marine stereo/cd player with no issues. Oh, last Halloween, I also added some light strings via a 12v cig adapter and inverter. All seemed to work fine at the same time.

[jay1028]

That is a very nice fuse block. Particularly I like the return (12V -) feature on that block. Since mine is a factory harness, all the 12V - lines are tied together in it and tie to the -36V. The factory 12V fuse block has positions for flasher and turn signals. One for headlights, and one for brake lights. I tied the reducer output to that fuse block.

Now that we have reducers, I will have to get a small inverter like you for xmas and halloween lights.

[gumpbuck]

Boo!!

[UncleJerm76]

Originally Posted by Stevegrmich

. . . your opinion seems contrary to the majority of people on this forum . . .

My comment was based on my experience with my Red Hawk 25a reducer, not other peoples opinions on this forum. If I leave my digital meter on the cart with no reducer attached it takes more than an afternoon to even move 1/10th of a single volt. 38.2 (after resting from a charge), 38.1 the next day, etc. When I hook up the reducer and turn all accessories off I can watch it drop tenths just over a minute or two. This is obviously multiplied once accessories get turned on.

QUOTE=jay1028;1046450]Steve,



Completely agree. Was wondering if anyone was going to let that go or agree.



As I stated, the yellow trigger wire on my unit (when a DMM was connected in series with it) was drawing a mere 20ma. Hardly going to 'pop' any kind of switch.




Jay[/QUOTE]

Thank you for your opinion, but if you are going to quote me don't put words in my mouth. I said it would pop a switch "light" aka lighted switches. Not the switch itself. I had to buy another switch that ran off the reducer just to light my other switches and purchase independent lighted switches instead of the cheaper standard lighted switches.
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