Heavy Duty F&R swich for 03 Series Cart

[sonicj]

*note - the links i posted are for 3/4" width. (1/4" wider than stock)

ok, heres mine. probably a little overkill for those 18awg wires huh?
the cams resembled the lunar surface before i sanded and polished 'em. the greasy looking stuff is grease.
-sj

[donhow]

The bus bars look good. What is the thickness? I don't understand the 18ga. wires connected to the busbars but maybe they are unique to your model. My 2001 DS model does not use them. You realize that the power through this switch is at the connections to the contacts on the other side of the switch. That's where the motor gets its power and where the benefits of the copper bus bars will come in.

[sonicj]

Originally Posted by donhow

The bus bars look good. What is the thickness? I don't understand the 18ga. wires connected to the busbars but maybe they are unique to your model. My 2001 DS model does not use them. You realize that the power through this switch is at the connections to the contacts on the other side of the switch. That's where the motor gets its power and where the benefits of the copper bus bars will come in.

thickness is 3/16".

the bars are leftover from when i had 2/0 running to the F&R switch. as i have it now, the current is switched through a massive reversing contactor in the rear of the cart. the stock f&r switches the contactor, the contactor carries the load. this method saves a ridiculous amount of wire, associated clutter, added resistance, etc. basically it eliminates the problems inherent with a F&R switch. i liked the convenient placement and feel of the stock F&R so i chose to keep it as the input control.
-sj

[LostHusker]

Originally Posted by sonicj

*note - the links i posted are for 3/4" width. (1/4" wider than stock)

ok, heres mine. probably a little overkill for those 18awg wires huh?
the cams resembled the lunar surface before i sanded and polished 'em. the greasy looking stuff is grease.
-sj

SJ. Did you use wax cord to tie your cables together??? Heck most installers don't even use that in MDF's now.

[sonicj]

yea, it doesn't look all that great at the moment... i used a running lock stitch then later added a wire for 1/2 speed reverse.

i have no idea what MDFs are? Medium Density Fiberboard? lol!
-sj

[LostHusker]

Originally Posted by sonicj

yea, it doesn't look all that great at the moment... i used a running lock stitch then later added a wire for 1/2 speed reverse.

i have no idea what MDFs are? Medium Density Fiberboard? lol!
-sj

Main Distribution Frame, telephone room.

sorry about the hijack

[donhow]

JEEZ! Your way out of my league! You really solved the F/R switch drawbacks. But I don't understand your affection for the stock F/R switch since you eliminated its power function. You could use a more practical low current switch.

[sonicj]

its not as complicated as it sounds.... i just took the function of the f&r switch and moved it to a contactor.

the switch is conveniently located, labeled, intuitive, reliable, fills the factory hole, free... i couldn't really come up with a good reason to replace it.
-sj

[caokgafamily]

Guy's,
I'm just about half way redoing the cables and rebuilt F&R switch (thanks SJ), nothing to it. I picked up some #2 welding cable and copper ends. It's going to be a hell of alot better than my mix of 4& 6 gauge junk I had on there orig. My only concern is I called PQ to ask about what max controller I could put with my Bandit. I just installed a 8" lift and 25" swap lite tires on a 12" rim. PQ said I would prob burn up the Bandit with those 25"? I'm going to get the GE 500 peak 600 controller, any thoughts?
THKS,
Steve

[caokgafamily]

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