2 stroke oil seal - metal casing?

[CoachBob]

I ordered some seals from amazon and they were shipped by replacementkits.com. The package is labeled for ezgo 80-93 2 stroke. The stock seals were metal cased and these are not. Anybody have a thought on that? Also do 2 stroke guys pack their seals? Manual says light oil on lip only. I generally put Loctite on mine as well. Finally i assume i don’t pack or lubricate the bearings. IMG_9523.jpgAdjustments.jpgIMG_9524.jpg


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[meimk]

I would prefer the metal, but I'm sure the composite / plastic(y) are fine. Yes oil the lip so they don't tear during installation and first start up. No need to pack those bearings, that's a part of what the 2 stroke oil flows through the crankcase for.

[trig123]

CoachBob, I would not trust those seals but that is just me. See if you can find one like what came out.

I would use blue Loctite on the outside of the metal ones and actually use something to make a small dent in about three places on the aluminum to make dang sure they stay in. They call that staking it. Just an extra measure. Like meimk stated put 2-stroke oil on the lip so it won't tear when installing

After all you have went though to get this flywheel off you sure don't want to trust inferior seals. Maybe someone else will chime in and tell their side. Keep us updated on your progress. Like bringing these oldies back to life.

[CoachBob]

Originally Posted by trig123

CoachBob, I would not trust those seals but that is just me. See if you can find one like what came out.

I would use blue Loctite on the outside of the metal ones and actually use something to make a small dent in about three places on the aluminum to make dang sure they stay in. They call that staking it. Just an extra measure. Like meimk stated put 2-stroke oil on the lip so it won't tear when installing

After all you have went though to get this flywheel off you sure don't want to trust inferior seals. Maybe someone else will chime in and tell their side. Keep us updated on your progress. Like bringing these oldies back to life.

I put these in but then felt a little queasy about it. I’m going to get the metal cased ones. I’ve staked in valve guides before. I suppose it couldn’t hurt. I must say, these are impressive little engines. Needle bearings all over the place, and tight tolerances. I don’t see a lot of this kind of overbuilt stuff on most machines i work on. I feel much better about ditching the governor after seeing the inside of this engine. The piston and bore were well within spec, the lower rod bearing had a touch of side play but up and down was tight. Lots of carbon on the piston.


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[Timberwolflt]

Just for clarification... the staking is done to the seal... not the block... unlike the valve guides... I’m sure I didn’t need to say that... I just had an image in my head of it going the other way

[cart around]

Originally Posted by Timberwolflt

Just for clarification... the staking is done to the seal... not the block... unlike the valve guides... I’m sure I didn’t need to say that... I just had an image in my head of it going the other way

I will disagree with that. The seal case is a thin steel shell. It will not deform easily like the aluminum case. It will most likely crush, and cause the rubber seal to deform.

This pdf shows what you want.

[Timberwolflt]

I stand corrected... but you won’t catch me deforming my aluminum block for a little insurance from a spinning or slipping seal when an additional bit of pressure at a few points on the disposable seal housing will work just as good... I’d dern sure hit it with a little lock-tite before I go permanently deforming the aluminum case