EZGO no go no mo

showey · 02-16-2010, 07:53 PM

Thanks again Doug. I have the diagrams, I just can't figure out why there's +36 volts at the S2 terminal of the motor. The cable goes to ground and thus shorts the system to ground when connected. (Charger won't start or anything)
If I remove the cable from S2, system charges but, of course still won't move.
So I think what I need is some reference test points. How much voltage, when and where.

dougmcp · 02-16-2010, 08:09 PM

When you say the cable goes to ground, do you mean the battery negative or the frame of the cart? All electric carts use a floating ground and no negative connections are attached to the frame only the negative battery posts.

showey · 02-16-2010, 09:28 PM

Sorry if I am unclear.
It goes to the negative terminal on the last (or 1st) battery in series.Everything appears to be as it should be in the wiring diagrams.
I believe the solenoid is shorted and there is no resistor or diode on the solenoid. (what would that cause on this cart?) I can do more testing, but I need to know what to test / where.
Like I said what voltage when etc.. Throttle closed or open, voltage at different points and at different throttle positions and / or forward / reverse etc.

dougmcp · 02-16-2010, 10:57 PM

If you have 36v on the S2 terminal, something is wrong in the wiring I think. I haven't done a resistor cart in awhile and we need some resistor cart guys to pipe in and get some troubleshooting happening here.

sak00 · 02-17-2010, 12:30 PM

Going from memory here. S2 should be connected to the neg side of the last battery. First battery + is connected to solenoid, Right? S1 is connected to the FNR switch. S1 and S2 are connected internally in the motor. A1 and A2 have continuity at the motor also. I would suspect there could be a short in the FNR switch. Watch out on which diagram you use as I used one and had smoke and flame. Use this one.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...rt-wiring.html

Good Luck

showey · 02-17-2010, 12:38 PM

Nice! Thank you. I will test further this weekend.

JBoever · 03-14-2010, 09:41 PM

DougMCP. Can I get that 6mb file of diagnostics emailed to me as well? I recently bought a 1994 marathon (old resister I think) cart that the seller said had a bad battery (I paid $500 for it). Every battery tested individually has 6.4ish volts. Clearly a couple posts had been melted but I tapped and fixed them. I put on 4 new cables before it got dark tonight (will finish tomorrow). Cleaned all the posts and one of the new cables is still warm/hot on the end where it goes into the battery terminal (all batteries have 6/07 dates.) I am thinking I must have a bad crimp (which shocks me because I crimped the heck out of the 2ga cable I bought from advanced auto parts). It is on charge tonight but I am a little worried...hopefully the melted posts came from loose connections in the past. All batteries test 6.4 and testing the controller at both posts I get 38.3 volts and he said it had sat for 3 months. When I put it into forward gear it slightly eased 2 feet forward so I am wondering can it have that many volts but still need charging...so thats what I am doing at this point.

Tomorrow I am replacing the rest of the cables (all of them, with the 2ga wire I have, plenty of) If all 6 batteries give me 6.4....that means batteries are good right and the guy just didn't know what he was doing (he said he replaced the motor and controller already so hopefully there isn't something else wrong, "a big issue") He said he replaced them because they went bad and that's all he could tell me. I guess I am hoping I wake up in the morning and the thing just works and all I have is a hot cable but something tells me with 38.4 volts at the moment and it not doing much means it isn't going to work).?????Any thoughts?

02-16-2010, 07:53 PM	#11
showey Not Yet Wild Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 8	Re: EZGO no go no mo Thanks again Doug. I have the diagrams, I just can't figure out why there's +36 volts at the S2 terminal of the motor. The cable goes to ground and thus shorts the system to ground when connected. (Charger won't start or anything) If I remove the cable from S2, system charges but, of course still won't move. So I think what I need is some reference test points. How much voltage, when and where.
showey Not Yet Wild Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 8

02-16-2010, 08:09 PM	#12
dougmcp Gone Wild Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Roseville, CA Posts: 2,757	Re: EZGO no go no mo When you say the cable goes to ground, do you mean the battery negative or the frame of the cart? All electric carts use a floating ground and no negative connections are attached to the frame only the negative battery posts.

02-16-2010, 09:28 PM	#13
showey Not Yet Wild Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 8	Re: EZGO no go no mo Sorry if I am unclear. It goes to the negative terminal on the last (or 1st) battery in series.Everything appears to be as it should be in the wiring diagrams. I believe the solenoid is shorted and there is no resistor or diode on the solenoid. (what would that cause on this cart?) I can do more testing, but I need to know what to test / where. Like I said what voltage when etc.. Throttle closed or open, voltage at different points and at different throttle positions and / or forward / reverse etc.
showey Not Yet Wild Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 8

02-16-2010, 10:57 PM	#14
dougmcp Gone Wild Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Roseville, CA Posts: 2,757	Re: EZGO no go no mo If you have 36v on the S2 terminal, something is wrong in the wiring I think. I haven't done a resistor cart in awhile and we need some resistor cart guys to pipe in and get some troubleshooting happening here.

02-17-2010, 12:30 PM	#15
sak00 What was I thinking? Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Brooksville, Florida Posts: 577	Re: EZGO no go no mo Going from memory here. S2 should be connected to the neg side of the last battery. First battery + is connected to solenoid, Right? S1 is connected to the FNR switch. S1 and S2 are connected internally in the motor. A1 and A2 have continuity at the motor also. I would suspect there could be a short in the FNR switch. Watch out on which diagram you use as I used one and had smoke and flame. Use this one. http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...rt-wiring.html Good Luck

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02-17-2010, 12:38 PM	#16
showey Not Yet Wild Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 8	Re: EZGO no go no mo Nice! Thank you. I will test further this weekend.
showey Not Yet Wild Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 8

03-14-2010, 09:41 PM	#17
JBoever Not Yet Wild Join Date: Mar 2010 Posts: 1	Re: EZGO no go no mo DougMCP. Can I get that 6mb file of diagnostics emailed to me as well? I recently bought a 1994 marathon (old resister I think) cart that the seller said had a bad battery (I paid $500 for it). Every battery tested individually has 6.4ish volts. Clearly a couple posts had been melted but I tapped and fixed them. I put on 4 new cables before it got dark tonight (will finish tomorrow). Cleaned all the posts and one of the new cables is still warm/hot on the end where it goes into the battery terminal (all batteries have 6/07 dates.) I am thinking I must have a bad crimp (which shocks me because I crimped the heck out of the 2ga cable I bought from advanced auto parts). It is on charge tonight but I am a little worried...hopefully the melted posts came from loose connections in the past. All batteries test 6.4 and testing the controller at both posts I get 38.3 volts and he said it had sat for 3 months. When I put it into forward gear it slightly eased 2 feet forward so I am wondering can it have that many volts but still need charging...so thats what I am doing at this point. Tomorrow I am replacing the rest of the cables (all of them, with the 2ga wire I have, plenty of) If all 6 batteries give me 6.4....that means batteries are good right and the guy just didn't know what he was doing (he said he replaced the motor and controller already so hopefully there isn't something else wrong, "a big issue") He said he replaced them because they went bad and that's all he could tell me. I guess I am hoping I wake up in the morning and the thing just works and all I have is a hot cable but something tells me with 38.4 volts at the moment and it not doing much means it isn't going to work).?????Any thoughts?
JBoever Not Yet Wild Join Date: Mar 2010 Posts: 1