Yamaha G22E wont go

[Bugalu]

2005 Yamaha G22E won't run. It is fully charged. After tuggling tow/run switch to run the solenoid clicks. When the accelerator is pressed the car will kick a little but not continue to move. The same happens in forward or reverse. Pressing the accelerator also makes the charge display to work incorrectly. The fully charged diode turns off and a couple others partialy light. When I let go of the pedal, it goes back to normal displaying only one full charge light. Any suggestions on how could I fix it?

[swampsat]

try checking the wiring, key switch, and fuses. Have seen them do some weired things. this is just a place to start. cheapest things first. Let us know how you make out.

[cgtech]

Check battery voltage WHILE pressing the pedal and make sure it doesnt rapidly drop below around 40v. Check the field wires to the motor (smaller ones) also check the two field terminals on your motor with your ohm meter while they are DISCONNECTED from the motor controller, you are looking for more than 1 ohm but less than 5 ohm. I once forgot to reconnect the field wires to the controller during controller replacement, and it did exactly what you describe. if the wiring looks good and the ohm test passes, use your voltmeter to check for voltage at the armature and field terminals when the gas pedal is pressed. Do the armature and field tests separately from each other. Jack the rear up BEFORE any of these tests, so your cart project doesn't become a remodeling project. On ex-course cars, the wire harness is sometimes corroded where it passes below the batterys. if all this passes, i would be suspicious of the controller.

[Bugalu]

Thanks for the help. I've checked all terminals and they are ok. Voltage accross the batteries drops from 46V to 20V when the accelerator pedal is depressed. I goes back up to 46V when the solenoid clicks off a few seconds later. Resistance across the field terminals while disconnected from the controller is 4 ohms. Voltage at field and armature terminals is 0 with the pedal depressed. Is there any other test for the controller? I'm suspecting a bad controller. It's a Moric JU2-H6510-22.

[Bugalu]

After all it turned out to be bad batteries. The car worked fine with a new set. The confusing thing was the charger was completing the charge cycle leading me to believe that the batteries were ok. In fact they were not, that's why the voltage was dropping to ~20V when the accelerator was depressed. The poor condition of the batteries was also confirmed with a hydrometer. The specific gravity of two of them was close to water.