Solenoid Clicks but cart does not move, QP0399 Pathway Golf (IQ-P)

[beachsideandy]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

Continuity and Motor Testing:
If you want test the motor do this Continuity Test first. Place the Run/Tow switch in "Tow" and then disconnect the pack and then all the cables from the motor. (Be sure to double wrench every motor post/stud when breaking them lose or you may break them off. Spray them down with penetrating oil prior to doing it).

Get out your DVM and set it to the Continuity setting and:
- Test between A1 and A2 (Beep)
- Test between F1 and F2 (Beep)
- Test between A1 and F1 (No Beep)
- Test between A1 to Motor Case (No Beep)
- Test between F1 to Motor Case (No Beep)

Now flip your meter to Ohms/Resistance and:
- Test between F1 and F2 and you should get 0.8 to 1.2 Ohms

If all those are correct as stated above then you can test the motor:

To test run a Sepex motor:
With all cables removed from the motor, jack the cart up at the rear and connect a jumper from A1 to F1 and then a jumper from A2 to F2. Connect 12 volts positive to A1/F1 and 12 volts negative to A2/F2. You may want to have a disconnect switch in-line with the power supply as some do and some do not....

And remember that you are only "testing" the motor so you don't want or need to engage it very long.

Ok so considering my solenoid is good, when the pedal is pressed, the controller should supply voltage to what posts on the motor through which color cables? How can I check to see if the controller is giving it juice?

Say the motor and solenoid are good, I imagine the controller needs something from that mcor box attached to the pedal to adjust the amount of speed the motor produces from a half to say full pedal? I assume that part could be bad in my case, right?

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[beachsideandy]

Here is my fuse carrier. The red wire goes right to the battery. It looks like it connects the green/white wire with a 20amp fuse. The red/white and yellow are connected to nothing. What are those for?

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[beachsideandy]

Ok I pressed the accelerator pedal about 100 times with my hand in and out, and every 5th or 6th time it just ever so slightly pulses then cuts out. Like I said it was doing this intermittently from when I bought it but it always worked if you actuated the pedal a few times. Does this sound like a symptom of a bad mcor?

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[beachsideandy]

Well dang, found problem. Loose blue wire on speed controller.

Hopefully that was the cause of the intermittent issue as well.

Thanks for all the help and diagram!

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[Sergio]

It definitely will not work without the Motor Field wires connected to the Controller.

That box with the red wire is a 16v->12v voltage limiter.

For future reference, this should be Your wiring diagram:

[beachsideandy]

Originally Posted by Sergio

It definitely will not work without the Motor Field wires connected to the Controller.

That box with the red wire is a 16v->12v voltage limiter.

For future reference, this should be Your wiring diagram:

Yeah as you guys know it's just a spade terminal and must have worked itself loose. I tightened up the connector itself a bit. Thanks.

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[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by beachsideandy

Well dang, found problem. Loose blue wire on speed controller.

Hopefully that was the cause of the intermittent issue as well.

Thanks for all the help and diagram!

Lol! And is why one of my original posts was to check all the connections. Cannot tell you how many times it is one of those.... Glad you found it.

[Johnny (THE HOOF) V]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

Lol! And is why one of my original posts was to check all the connections. Cannot tell you how many times it is one of those.... Glad you found it. [emoji106]

I said that as well right from the begining. When it happens to you 2 times its the first thing you look for. Cheers

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[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by Johnny (THE HOOF) V

I said that as well right from the begining. When it happens to you 2 times its the first thing you look for. Cheers

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Yep, the first thing I do is wiggle and push/pull all mu connections. Even relanding/reseating a spade connection has done the trick before...