Western nightmare

[Papas 73Dart]

My friend with the 2003 Western Elegant broke down and bought 7 new Trojan 6 volt batteries this year. He was so proud of himself as he and his son installed them and it ran just like it should. HOWEVER that bit of joy was truly fleeting,it quit after an hour or so and is now dead as a stick.
I checked all the main cables and connections and all are good.
The solenoid clicks and passes all the tests .
What I did find is the black and white wires from the throttle pot are open circuit
There is no continuity to the induction coil in the throttle box
I took the box off the cart and opened it up,the wiring from the micro switch and the induction coil to the mole X plug all have continuity and are in good
condition . Am I correct in assuming there should be an ohms reading through the coil windings ? Also should there be a voltage present at either the white or black wire terminals at the electronic speed control terminals
The speed control looks exactly like a Curtis 1204/1204s/1205

[smokey tennis shoe]

Look for a white plastic connector, down on the floor, passenger side inside battery compartment.

Ther is a plastic connector that has 4 wires in it, red, black, green, and white i think. These 4 wires go down to your throttle box. many times i have found this plastic connector has corrossion in it.
If so, cut out the connector and splice the 4 wires to each other, color to color.

See if this helps

[Papas 73Dart]

I replaced the induction coil and put it back together cleaned the 4wire plug
tried it again and solenoid just clicks.
The controller has 4heavy lugs M- B- B+ A2 . Between M- andB- there are 3 spade terminals with black white and red wires16 gauge
Between the B+ and A2 lugs is a sped terminal with an orange wire !
Anyone know what make of controller has this configuration ?
I have determined that it is built on an EZGO chassis but can't find anything to give me an idea if it's a marathon or a txt

[rbuggies48IN]

Should be a Curtis Controller 1205-??? 36 / 48 volt / 370 amps. I'm doing a rebuild on a 2006 Western Elegante and having similar problems. I replaced the ITS as is was reading above 5 volts, when I did a suggested test between the Pin 1, the white wire (16 gauge on the Controller). However, I still have just clicks and no movement. I am doing more evaluation at the motor, but the cart did run, sort of, when I first got it. Hope to here more from The Experts on this site so I can determine next step or steps, but I am going back through everything again to be sure I have not missed anything.

Note:

* Pin 4 / Orange wire is the 1/2 speed reverse connection to the Curtis Controller.
* According to the experts you should get a reading of approximately 0.4 through 1.7 volts at Pin 1 (white wire) with the pedal pushed until the solenoid clicks for low reading and the approx. 1.7 volts when pedal is on the floor. You'll need the rear wheels off the ground for this check
* You can have the controller rebuilt for about $ 250 or so or go with a new one for + $ 450, I think, or search for a used one. Google-up Curtis Controller or Golf Cart rebuilt controllers for more info about who does this and for what price.

[rbuggies48IN]

The EZGO 'stickies' should get you an Electronic Speed Control Wiring Diagram.

I did more checking/testing on my project and the controller seems good as full pack voltage between m- and b- is present when tested between B+ and drops as pedal is pushed. Test at pin 2 shows low voltage and it appears I have
a problem at the FNR or one of the micro switches, which I will check out today.

[rbuggies48IN]

Found my no-go problem - it was the FNR high voltage contacts on the FNR Switch board. Can try replacing the copper bolt contacts for $ 3.50 to $ 6.00 each or purchase a new FNR Board for $ 35 to $ 50 if there is concern regarding the new 'bolts'contact point being too high on the worn FNR Switch Board. The FNR cam is most likely fine, but should also be evaluated for new bolts. Note: over time, the copper contact bolts on the FNR switch board can overheat and 'sink' into the existing guide plate and loose contact with the cam contact bolts.

[Papas 73Dart]

Sent my controller off to FSIP for a rebuild . Just waiting for it to clear customs.
While I wait I found my new ignition switch was half dead on the accessory power side. I also took out the radio,didn't work anyway and removed the fan for cool air. Here in Alberta a heater would make more sense . I also traced ALL the wires and cut out anything that looked questionable . I installed a fuse box for the remaining accessories . Hers hoping that when my final parts arrive and installed that it will put an end to this headache . Thank god the owner is reasonable and easy going.