Troubleshooting question

[Durney]

Lets see if I can make this easy,

2008 DS, all original, New Batt's in 2016.

Goes 2 feet and "shuts down", I can hear the click from activating the pedal, check batteries: all at 12.4-12.5 individually and 49+ total. All connections good and clean.

Bypass the solenoid (hooking red to yellow terminal), bingo works and runs around. BUT, with it bypassed the cart has lost at least 40% of its top speed.

Is this normal with it bypassed?

Im going to replace the solenoid but what should I check next?

Pedal (MCOR) switch? F&R Switch (seems be fine)?

thanks folks

[Fairtax4me]

Sounds to me like the batteries are dead. You need to check pack voltage while the cart is moving. Connect the Voltmeter with alligator clips and see how much the voltage drops when the batteries are under load. I would say if they're falling to less than 36V under load, they're probably toast.

What kind of batteries? Have you checked the water level in them? Are all of the terminals tight and clean?

[Durney]

Batteries are Crown and only 2 years old. All connections are clean and tight. Water is spot on (recently topped it off). I can check running voltage tonight.

[WalterM6]

I would check the voltage across the little terminals of the solenoid. If 0v when you step on the throttle don't bother changing the solenoid just yet. You didn't mention which model DS you had. Series or IQ.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by Durney

-snip-
Goes 2 feet and "shuts down", I can hear the click from activating the pedal, check batteries: all at 12.4-12.5 individually and 49+ total. All connections good and clean. Unplug the two pin connector from the MCOR (under the floor and connected to a linkage from the pedal) and jump out the connector with a paper clip or a small piece of wire. It will be a blue wire and green wire connector. If it runs with the jumper in place, your MCOR has failed. Get one here https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/mcors


Bypass the solenoid (hooking red to yellow terminal), bingo works and runs around. BUT, with it bypassed the cart has lost at least 40% of its top speed.
Is this normal with it bypassed? It is in Limp mode as you are missing an input.

Im going to replace the solenoid but what should I check next? I would not waste my money on that until I knew it was faulty. If you are missing one of the 48+ or 48- inputs, it will not work. Roll the cart forwards for several feet and see if the buzzer goes off and you feel resistance to the push.

Try those too

[Durney]

Outstanding, clear precise tests. I will do all of that this afternoon and post results. I believe its a Series as it has a GE motor with the snap on sensor and a tow / run switch.

I was also told to check running voltage and if any individual battery drops to 11.9 or less its a bad battery. I was warned that the Four 12v style only last 2-3 years...and I should have upgraded to the Six 8's.

[Fairtax4me]

If it has a speed sensor and Tow/run switch its an IQ cart.
Don't quote me on it but I'm pretty sure Club car stopped making series carts in 99ish...

It may have a series-wound motor, but that doesn't make the cart a "series" cart.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by Durney

Outstanding, clear precise tests. I will do all of that this afternoon and post results. I believe its a Series (Nah, that is an IQ cart (SepEx) as it has a GE motor with the snap on sensor and a tow / run switch.

I was also told to check running voltage and if any individual battery drops to 11.9 or less its a bad battery. I was warned that the Four 12v style only last 2-3 years...and I should have upgraded to the Six 8's. Nah, don't let someone "tell" you something with out the facts to back it up. 4x12's is an excellent set up. Their life is just as long and usually longer due to the heavier plating in them, but you get more total amphours from 6-8's. I am just this week replacing my eight ( year old (June '10) US Batteries that have held 50.x vdc up until just the last month and would yield me miles and miles of travel per charge. The key to battery life is 1st- Quality brand (US, Trojan or Crown), 2nd- Break them in properly, 3rd- Plug it into the charger anytime you park it, 4th- Try to never discharge them beyond 50%, 5th- perform maintenance on them monthly and you will get a LONG life out of them....

Notes above... And only check the pack/individual batteries 12 hours after a complete charge.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

Don't quote me on it but I'm pretty sure Club car stopped making series carts in 99ish...

I am trying to remember, but I think it was '01ish as in '02 the IQ's took over. I have a '00 series DS at the camp and my brother has an '01 Regen 2 cart. But we are all in the ball park....

[WalterM6]

Make sure the band on the diode that's on the solenoid is connected to the positive wire. It's the light blue wire on a precedent. Next place the positive lead on the blue/white wire on the solenoid and the neg lead on the battery main neg connection. You should read 48v standby and it should drop to zero when you step on the throttle. If not your looking at a bad controller.