EZGO pedal switch problems

[wildcat1111]

I recently acquired a 2002 EZGO TXT Series 36v for a good price because it "wouldn't go" and the PO didn't want pay for troubleshooting/repairs.

I downloaded the Technician's Repair and Service Manual and followed the troubleshooting diagrams Electronic Speed Control (Non-PDS) up to step 21 (testing voltage between Battery B- and Pedal Box switch). This step recommended replacing pedal micro switch according to symptoms I was experiencing.

I purchased a new pedal micro switch, installed it and the problem was fixed. The cart performed exactly like it should....for about 2 days. Then, exactly the same problems - verified by following the troubleshooting diagrams again. Purchased a 2nd pedal micro switch (thinking/hoping I had got a faulty switch the first time). Again, this fixed the problem....for about 4 days. Now, experiencing the same problems.

Here's what I know. The first time the cart stopped working was with the PO, so I'm not sure what happened. The second time, my son was driving it and he couldn't explain anything more than "it quit working". The third time, i was driving, up an incline. The motor started to hestitate bad, like a big drop in voltage. I let off the pedal, turned the wheel so it would steer along the side of the hill instead of going up it, pressed the pedal the cart moved fine. Then turned to go up the hill. The motor hesitated, then stopped completely. No forward, no reverse.

Using my meter, i tested all 3 pedal switches (after they broke) and they show continuity when the switch is released, no continuity when the switch is pressed - as they should. Why/how are they bad if continuity is correct? Is there any other testing i can do to verify a bad switch?

Why would the cart be causing the pedal switch to go bad over and over?

[yurtle]

Find and eliminate this Molex connector. It is a four wire connector that has two wires for the throttle ITS and two for throttle microswitch. It's usually located between the controller/solenoid and the FNR. Corrosion in the contacts is common. You can spray contact cleaner and plug/unplug/plug, and it may temporarily fix the problem.

Not guaranteed to be your problem, but like the reed switch - which you should also bypass - it's something to eliminate. Simply solder or butt splice and quality heat shrink the wires.

Oh crap. I just violated Article 13.

[wildcat1111]

Thanks for the suggestions. I will definitely work on that while I wait on another pedal switch to be shipped.

I'm still confused as to how the switch can be bad, but show continuity like it supposed to on the meter. What am I not understanding?

[yurtle]

Did you measure continuity at the switch? Both wires from the switch go through the Molex connector, so if either one is bad... Mine would need to be unpluged and replugged every few months. Sometimes solenoid clicked but no go, sometimes no solenoid click.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by wildcat1111

Thanks for the suggestions. I will definitely work on that while I wait on another pedal switch to be shipped.

I'm still confused as to how the switch can be bad, but show continuity like it supposed to on the meter. What am I not understanding?

The switch is good, the wiring connecting it to the controller is bad.

Apparently there is enough cross-talk between the green and red wires in the in-line connector for the controller to believe the switch contacts are closed.

[yurtle]

I just noticed you're new here so welcome. Visit the Stickies and download the three manuals below.

Owners Manual for some newer electric carts
http://products.jacobsen.com/img/man...645-g01-gb.pdf

Technician's service and repair manual electric carts
http://products.jacobsen.com/img/manuals/28646.pdf

Service Parts Manuals electric carts
http://products.jacobsen.com/img/manuals/28789-g01.pdf